21st Birthday Adventure: Exploring Japan's Top Destinations

Wednesday, March 15

Seattle · SeaTac Airport

It was Carter’s 21st birthday. Finally legal to drink and go to bars. To celebrate, he planned to join about 9 friends on a trip to Japan. I decided to join him at least for the trip to Japan, since I hadn’t been there since I worked there in 1999. I asked Unkle Sean and Chris Massot to come along as adult friends. After about 8 hours, his friends’ lodging and other plans became a shit show, so he asked to stay with me. This is why I always book a double room. He thought it better to hang out with the adults.

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 3 — Carter’s first legal drink!

Thursday, March 16

Tokyo · Kaigan

We arrived at Haneda Airport in the afternoon, tired. We decided to dine at our hotel that evening and rest up for the long two weeks ahead.

Friday, March 17

Tokyo · Kaigan

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 9 — The Japanese always have unusual advertising.

Tokyo · Meiji Jingu

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 12 — Sake barrels.

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 24 — History of Japan in storyboards.

Tokyo · Harajuku

We stumbled upon a cool BMW pop-up museum.

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 40 — Directions to the famous Kappa Bashi knife district in Tokyo.

Chris, Sean, and I were going to catch a train to somewhere, and got on the wrong one. Several stops later, we discovered our mistake and got off. We got off at a large covered mall with many watch shops, cafes, and bars. We visited a cat cafe where girls dressed cats served us coffee – cute. We finally found a whiskey bar.

Tokyo · Nakano

Tokyo · Bright Brown (nightclub) · Nakano

Tokyo · Nishi-Azabu

For Carter’s official birthday dinner, our friend Marcus recommended an omakase sushi bar. It was small and intimate, with 34 courses. I tapped out after the Spanish Mackerel.

Saturday, March 18

Tokyo · Ginza

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 69 — Sean and I exploring Ginza.

Tokyo · Kappabashi Kitchenware Town · Asakusa

We found Kappabashi and spent hours shopping for knives. We must have purchased at least 10!

Tokyo · Asakusa

Tokyo · 法庵寺 (temple) · Roppongi

Chris, Sean, Carter, and I found a cool restaurant called the Banque, set in an old bank vault with an amazing wine program.

Tokyo · Don guri (restaurant) · Nishi-Azabu

We found an exceptionally cool sake bar.

Sunday, March 19

Tokyo · Don guri (restaurant) · Nishi-Azabu

Tokyo · Takashin Suisan (restaurant) · Tsukiji

The next morning we met up with Daniel, KT and KT’s Mom to explore the famous Tsukiji fish market. The actual fish market relocated, but all the vendor stalls remained. We spent most of the day eating.

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 111 — Wagyu and uni on a stick – this was outstanding.

Tokyo · Maruni Shoten (shop) · Tsukiji

Tokyo · Tsukiji

Tokyo · Takashin Suisan (restaurant) · Tsukiji

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 138 — As fresh as it gets.

Tokyo · Tsukiji

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 149 — One happy child.

Tokyo · 波除稲荷神社 (shrine) · Tsukiji

Kyoto

The next day Sean, Chris and I took the Shinkansen to Kyoto.

Kyoto · Higashiyama

Kyoto · Gion

Gion is famous for its traditional geishas.

Monday, March 20

Kyoto · Arashiyama

The famous bamboo forest.

Next to the bamboo forest was a hillside with many trails and traditional buildings.

Chris and I decided to walk through neighborhoods on the outskirts of Arashimaya, aiming to find the famous, remote Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple.

Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple has over 1200 small stone statues of Rakan (disciples of Buddha), each with a unique and expressive face.

After visiting the temple, we trekked back to Arashiyama to catch the train to Fushimi Inari. We must have walked 20 miles that day.

Kyoto · Fushimi

This temple has over 1000 orange torii gates to the top of the mountain.

Kyoto · Fushimi Inari rear shrine (shrine)

Kyoto · Fushimi

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 306 — Sunset from the summit.

Kyoto · Nakagyo

After a long day of walking, it was time to refresh.

Tuesday, March 21

Kyoto · Nakagyo

Kyoto · Kamigyō

Kyoto · Kyoto Imperial Palace · Kamigyō

Sean loves culture and history so we made our way to several temples and palaces.

Kyoto · Chion-in (temple) · Higashiyama

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 341 — The Kyoto Bistro at the Park Hyatt.

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 342 — The Kyoto Bistro at the Park Hyatt.

Kyoto · Apple Pie Lab (cafe) · Higashiyama

Kyoto · Higashiyama

Sean and I made our way to Kiyomizu-dera, one of my favorite areas in Kyoto.

Kyoto · Fushimi

Chris had departed back to the States, so Sean and I made our way through Kyoto. It was his turn to visit Fushimi Inari.

Kyoto · Fushimi Inari rear shrine (shrine)

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 383 — Map of the trail to the summit.

Kyoto · Nishiki Market · Nakagyo

Kyoto · Nakagyo

We made our way to the Bee’s Knees, one of Asia’s top 50 bars.

Next, we walked the back alley of Pontocho.

Japan Part 1 2023 🇯🇵🗼 – photo 417 — It’s not unusual to see men passed out on the streets of Japan. Oftentimes, kind people place water bottles next to them to recover once they wake.

Wednesday, March 22

Kyoto · Shimogyo

Sean and I prepared to return to Tokyo to fetch Carter. The Shinkansen doesn’t offer food service on board, so train stations commonly sell boxed meals called ekiben, which are ubiquitous in Japanese train culture.