National Lampoons European Vacation 2024 🇩🇰🇩🇪🇱🇺🇫🇷🧜🏻‍♀️🏎️💨🏰🍾🏔️

European Vacation 2024 Roll Call – All present and accounted for!

Carter and I were brainstorming ideas for my 57th birthday. We love to travel, and had been on a trip with Jim and Mitch Morgan to Dublin for the boys’ birthdays. I like the band Air, and they were playing in Copenhagen and later in Saint-Malo, France, two weeks apart. I suggested we see the band in both places and plan a trip around these endpoints to connect the dots. Our good friend Paul Ellington would be in Copenhagen along with the resident Viking, Sebastian. Unkle Sean agreed to join on the Denmark leg as he had nearby business. We like cars, so I suggested renting BMW’s Stuttgart for all the driving, as Stuttgart is home to both the Porsche and Mercedes museums. I also noticed that the famous Nürburgring racetrack was nearby. What about a few laps around the track? Rhone is a Luxemburger, so that was definitely a required stop. We like Champagne – Reims it is. In 1990, I visited the Brittany and Normandy towns of Saint-Malo, a famous walled city, and the iconic Mont Saint-Michel. I said to Carter, ‘You must see these.’ Paris seemed like a decent departure point. The route was set, and soon the planning of the itinerary commenced. National Lampoon’s European Vacation was set!

First stop – Copenhagen

I love the Nyhaven area for its colorful, picturesque buildings, touristy cafes, and hip vibe. It never gets boring and is such an eminently iconic area in Copenhagen.

The start of our Copenhagen tour

Denmark is known for its Danish design. I have loved Danish design since I was a teenager, and it’s always a joy to walk around the numerous furniture studios, searching for the next must-have piece.

We made our obligatory pilgrimage to Restaurant Schonnemann.

Watch Buying

Watch buying is a tradition on the Hadland vacations. I famously tell my sons and their friends, I buy, I do not shop. Period. I like watches. Besides fine dining, I travel to buy watches, Moncler jackets I don’t really need, but really want, and take many photos of interesting things to me.

I initially visited the Omega store, one of my favorite brands. Carter told Mitch ‘Do not let my Dad go watch shopping’. Mitch is great at following instructions. Soon, I was sharing the art of buying. Walk into the store, request some Champagne, and let the sellers entice the buyers.

Two men sitting on a couch in a luxury store, one making a peace sign and the other smiling.
A man in a pink shirt and glasses is discussing a watch purchase with a female shop attendant in a luxury watch store, with a champagne glass held in the foreground.
A young man examines watches in a display case while using a smartphone to take notes or check information.
Sam on Damage Control
A man and a woman posing together, both smiling, with a bottle of Hendrick's gin held in front of them. The background has leafy plants and a textured wall.
Happy Birthday to me!

Now, as fate would have it, Swatch was dropping a scarce watch, the Omega/Swatch Super Blue Moon. Sold for only about 22 days, and available only in Omega boutiques, I spent two days waiting until after closing to secure the rare timepiece. Sebastian was good enough to accompany me on both outings. Each time, the person ahead of us, after queuing, would post-closing secure their treasure, and when it was our turn, there would be no booty left. I was less than pleased. After explaining my plight to the lovely people at the Omega boutique, I was informed by my salesperson that she had called the European manager of Swatch and pulled some strings on my behalf. On our next Swatch store queue outing, we finally secured our treasure! I guess it helped that I purchased a nice Omega for my birthday.

Matchy Matchy!

Next some city touring was in order.

Noma

We had the good fortune to score a last-minute lunch reservation at the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Noma.

The Three-Hour Tour

Unkle Sean is great for trips. He plans culturally interesting itineraries and always has innovative ideas for excursions. He suggested a picturesque boat tour around the waterways of Copenhagen. I agreed once again that this was a brilliant idea. We had to take two boats due to timing. As we watched from afar, it appeared that Sean was tardy for the launch. We saw him running across the dock to the boat. I had never seen Sean run before. Realize we have been friends for 25 years, and not in a single instance have I ever seen him run. I grabbed Carter and told him to watch as history was in the making.

Three men sitting together on a boat, smiling for the camera, with a modern building and blue sky in the background.
Apparently Sean made the boat in time.
TheHad Dad and Rhone – the sky was on fire!
A selfie of a person wearing sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat, standing in a restaurant setting, with a female staff member in a white shirt and black apron visible in the background.

Dinner would be at Goldfinch, a lovely Chinese Restaurant located on the Kongens Nytorv Square across from the famous D’Angleterre Hotel.

Three young men smiling and posing together in a restaurant, sitting at a table with drinks and a decorative backdrop.
A close-up photo of two men taking a selfie at a restaurant, with one man smiling and the other looking serious.

Rhone went missing under mysterious circumstances at dinner. He arrived that day and let his phone die, so I was unable to track him. A bit worried about a child (6’4″ 230 lbs) missing, I sent the boys on a recon mission to find him. Carter issued a BOLO to the police and anxiously searched and awaited any news of a Rhone sighting.

Two young men posing for a photo outdoors, one wearing a blue Italy jersey and sunglasses, the other in a light-colored shirt. They appear relaxed and cheerful.
A young man looking stressed while sitting at a table with a smartphone in front of him. He has a concerned expression, with one hand on his forehead and a can of sparkling water beside him. His shirt has a noticeable stain.
Carter diligently manned the search for Rhone.

Sean and I were distraught and did the only reasonable thing one would do in this situation. We returned to Balthazar, a nearby Champagne bar, and did the only civilized thing to do in this predicament – we ordered a bottle of bubbly and some caviar as we pondered our next move in this terribly disquieting situation.

A table setting featuring a glass of champagne, a plate of small pancakes, deviled eggs, and a bowl of assorted nuts, with a luxurious ambiance.

After profound enlightenment and long contemplation, and after concluding the bottle, I suggested we return to the scene of the crime and search for Rhone in the park. He was soon found, largely unscathed, within 5 minutes. Old age and treachery will always win over youth and skill.

Exterior view of Hotel d'Angleterre in Copenhagen, beautifully illuminated at night with flags displayed on the roof.
Found Rhone

Stuttgart

We caught an early flight to Stuttgart, our next stop, the cathedral of precision for German car engineering (Carter would add in Munich for the storied Bavarian manufacturer – BMW – Bavarian Motor Works). Stuttgart is less a city and more a pilgrimage route for four-wheeled German-engineered machines. However, we quickly discovered that it was a less-than-ideal place to visit – very industrial, gritty, and under a continuous effort of reconstruction. It was the least favorite city on the tour, let alone all of Europe. Our hotel was located on a street under construction for at least 500 meters, and there was nothing walkable – terrible, just terrible. Plus, it was about 100 degrees. I consulted with Jim and the group and cut our two-day stay short to swap a day in Stuttgart for an extra day in Luxembourg. Jim agreed, and according to his football math, we scored the two-point conversion for the go-ahead score.

First Stop – Porsche Museum

A view of a modern urban area featuring gray buildings, a pedestrian bridge, and people walking, set against a clear blue sky.
Factory where they paint all 911 chassis
An aerial view of four high-end cars parked in a lot, their reflections distorted on a diamond-patterned glass surface.
A classic red Porsche 911 stands in a well-lit workshop, showcasing its sleek design and shiny chrome details.
A red Porsche 911 (referred to as 901) displayed in a museum, showcasing its classic design. A man is seen speaking nearby.

The Porsche 901 is a legend. That’s because it was the forerunner of the 911. Porsche unveiled a production-ready vehicle, but within just a few weeks, the coupé had to be renamed as a result of a trademark dispute with Peugeot, which owned the trademark on any car designation with a X0X, where the zero is in the middle. From then on, it was known as the 911. All of the customer vehicles produced up to that point were manufactured as 901 vehicles, but sold as 911 vehicles. This was the original, first restored 911.

A pink Porsche 917 race car on display in a museum, with a crowd of visitors admiring it.
The famous pig
A silver Porsche Carrera GT displayed in a museum, showcasing its sleek design and luxurious interior.
Side view of a Porsche Carrera GT with the car door opened, showcasing its sleek interior and design.
A silver Porsche 959 sports car displayed in a museum, showcasing its sleek design and distinctive features.
Close-up of a person's hands holding a colorful racing steering wheel featuring various buttons and dials, showcasing advanced controls for a high-performance vehicle.
Close-up of a classic car's door featuring the Martini International Club logo with a safety belt design.
Rear view of a Porsche 911 race car with a distinctive Martini racing livery, showcasing its prominent rear spoiler and racing decals.

Mercedes Museum

My Cathedral
A classic Mercedes-Benz car with a sleek design and a white exterior, featuring distinctive gullwing doors. The red interior contrasts with the exterior. In the background, a crowd of people is admiring the car and exploring the exhibit.
A classic Mercedes-Benz car displayed in a museum, with a silver racing car sitting on top of a blue vintage Mercedes truck.
A white Mercedes-Benz G-Class vehicle with a transparent enclosure on display at a car museum, surrounded by visitors taking photos.
The Pope Mobile
Aerial view of a modern car exhibition featuring various vintage and contemporary racing cars, including sleek sports models displayed on a circular platform with informative displays around.
A detailed cutaway view of a car transmission, showing internal gears, components, and mechanisms displayed on a white pedestal in a modern exhibition space.
A collection of vintage silver Mercedes racing cars displayed in a modern museum setting, featuring various models including those numbered 36, 122, and 178, with visitors admiring the exhibits.
Interior view of a museum showcasing a silver concept car on display, with visitors observing the exhibit.
Top view of a sleek Formula 1 racing car on a patterned floor featuring pit crew graphics.
A 2001 Mercedes-Benz race truck engine displayed on a pedestal, featuring a detailed view of its intricate components and design.

Luxembourg

Back on the road again…

With Stuttgart finally behind us, we made our way to the tax haven of Luxembourg. This was a special stop as Rhone is a citizen of Luxembourg, a true Luxembourger. Thank god we came early. The town is lovely, and our hotel, a restored series of townhouses centered in the pedestrian square, was a respite from German hospitality.

Image of a highway scene showing a mix of vehicles including cars and trucks on a well-maintained road surrounded by green foliage.
A view of cars driving inside a tunnel with bright lights illuminating the walls and traffic signals visible ahead.
Two men enjoying drinks on a terrace with a view of a cityscape and blue sky.

Koln aka Cologne

Due to a miscommunication and a lost in translation exchange between German and English while changing the date of our drive on the famous Nurburgring race track, we found ourselves with eight hours of free time in Germany. The famed Nürburgring track is in the middle of nowhere, Germany. We discussed our options and felt a side trip to Cologne for lunch would be a good use of time and a cultural experience. We had a tight window to drive to the city, have lunch, and return for our laps on the most famous track of them all.

The Autobahn – Wir fahr’n, fahr’n, fahr’n auf der Autobahn

Queue the Kraftwerk, we were driving on the Autobahn. Now, as I learned the hard way, the Autobahn does indeed have sections with speed limits. I was most successful at finding them.

Busted

Jim and I opted for a quick tour of the famous Cologne Cathedral. Construction started in 1248 and was finally completed according to its original plans in 1880. The towers, with their two massive spires, give the cathedral the most prominent façade of any church in the world.

A young man stands near the riverbank in Cologne, Germany, with the Cologne Cathedral and a bridge visible in the background under a cloudy sky.

With our obligatory magnet purchase complete and the end of a short, unmemorable lunch, we resumed our trip to the track.

Screenshot

Nurburgring

Every lap tells a story; some are thrillers, some are tragedies, and all are expensive.

Our highly anticipated laps around the most famous race track in the world quickly spiralled into a complete clusterfuck. What I thought would be an hour of coaching, driving, car, and track review ended up being two random German instructors meeting us at the crowded entrance to the track, which, by the way, is a public road open to any driver paying the daily fee. We were instructed to jump in the cars and drive. No instruction, random people, and vehicles from every walk of life were moving with us. In general, I had no objection, but I was expecting a very different experience. Realize this is the track that all manufacturers in the world use to time their cars for the fastest lap. We were not officially timed, but we were driving a 911 GT3, one of the world’s fastest cars. Current record lap times are just over seven minutes. I clocked in between 11 and 12 minutes for my laps. Regardless, it was a total blast to drive these fast cars on this storied track.

Front view of a gray Porsche 718 Cayman GT4 with blue racing stripes parked in a garage surrounded by other cars.

With our laps at the track complete, we returned to Luxembourg for dinner and our final night in the town.

Carter found a Michelin-recommended restaurant, Clairfountaine, for dinner. Some folks were tired from a very long day of driving, so we were at a small table. The food and service were impeccable. We even learned the difference between Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet.

Champagne

Our next destination after Luxembourg was Reims in the Champagne region of France. It was one of our longest driving segments, and we happily took our pair of BMW wagons on the open roads of the Autoroute de France.

After some thoughtful and insightful contemplation of the majesty of the history and architecture before us, it was time to do the only reasonable thing before us – dinner!

Dinner for the evening was at Millenaire, a seafood-focused restaurant that was highly recommended. The food was decent and the whole experience a bit weird. Our waiter resembled a cartoon character straight from Tintin, and we were confused when Jim’s martini was made only with Martini vermouth. At least the meal was beautiful and good.

La Cathédrale de Reims

Reims Cathedral

Reims is home to one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in France, rivaling Notre Dame. Completed in 1275, it was the traditional location for the coronation of the Kings of France.

I arranged a tour of the Cathedral, where we were allowed to climb the 500+ steps up a narrow spiral stone staircase to the bell tower and upper roof, with vaulted ceilings and ramparts at the top.

Amazing concrete rib vaults. We were able to walk across the entire length of the span.

Epernay

We traveled to Epernay, the true heart of the Champagne. I arranged a private tour of the caves and tasting flights. There are miles of caves carved into the chalk-like earth, housing hundreds of millions of dollars’ worth of Champagne, the magical beverage of kings. This was only one Champagne house. The ground is literally a buried treasure.

After a lovely tour of the grottoesque caverns storing copious amounts of aged Champagne, we embarked on the next stage of this nearly spiritual journey to appreciate the magic and alchemy between the union of grape juice and yeast. It took blessedly long to get to this stage.

This is P2. The minimum aging for a standard Dom Pérignon vintage is eight years, but this varies for its “Plénitude” releases. The P2 (Plénitude 2) vintage is aged for a minimum of 15 years, and the P3 (Plénitude 3) is aged for a minimum of 25 years. 

Two bottles of Dom Perignon Champagne from different vintages (2015 and 2006) alongside elegant champagne glasses on a table with ambient purple lighting in a brick cellar.

And off to Perrier Jouet for more tasting. They are famous for their Belle Epoque Flower Bottle.

After we toured the Champagne houses in Epernay, we returned to Reims for our final evening. Our hotel was situated across the courtyard from the Cathedral, and our patio was an ideal place for dinner. After our latest voyage into haute cuisine, we all wished we had dined here again.

After dinner, we met a group of young Belgian men who invited us to a club in their chauffeured car. They were rather friendly fellows, generous with magnums of Veuve Cliquot, and introduced us to all sorts of fun at the club.

After an evening of fun and libations with the Belgians, it was time to move on to our next destination. We had another long driving day ahead of us.

Saint Malo

After hours of driving with Jim, we passed Paris, en route to Saint-Malo. Near Le Mans, I channeled my inner race car driver and made a second, unplanned donation to France’s K-12 education system, all while making new friends.

A man stands with two police officers beside a police car on a road with a cloudy sky in the background.

I was driving a German car with German plates, and the Police man immediately admonished me for not respecting France’s laws. He then inquired if I was German, to which I replied, ‘Nein.’ He then asked if I was French, and in my best French accent, I replied, ‘Non.’ Confused, he then asked me what I was. I replied American. He then presented me with a breathalyzer test and asked if I had been drinking. Jim chimed in and replied ‘Not yet. I took the test and passed, of course, and he handed me the plastic mouthpiece from the device. I asked him if I should piss in it. Not amused, his demeanor and visage changed positively when I asked him what that strange blue car was that caught up with me. He replied, ‘It’s a French supercar, Alpine,’ to which I replied, ‘I did not know the French made a supercar.’ I asked to see their car and received a full tour of the French excellence in supercar automotive engineering.

We arrived in Saint-Malo, the terminus of the music-planned trip, where Air was playing at the Route du Rocher. It was raining, so I opted to have dinner in town and skip the show. We stayed at the beautiful Le Grand Hotel Des Thermes, a seaside resort and spa set on the beach.

We settled into town for the evening to explore the walled city and enjoy some of the local cuisine. We sampled some local mussels and found a restaurant with a very gregarious proprietor.

Jim was ecstatic when I filled his wine glass to the rim with a perfect meniscus.

Le Anniversaire

August 17th was my birthday. As luck would have it, one of the more esoteric HiFi brands, Totaldac, was located about an hour’s drive away in a rural farm village. I set off in the BMW and navigated my way down narrow farm roads and through towns to meet with Vincent Brient, the owner and sole designer and manufacturer of all Totaldac products. It’s unusual and rare to have a company of such high-end audio products owned and operated by a single individual. Vincent and I spent about two hours discussing his products, his engineering background, and listening to his systems. I hope to have one of these trapezoidal monoliths in my Hi-Fi racks someday.

The reference system
Stacks of DACs
Monoblock Amps
Vincent uses exceptionally precise Russian made resistors in his DACs

After treating myself to a great birthday Hi-Fi audio experience, I returned to Saint-Malo to tour the walled city with the gang. I visited Saint-Malo in 1999 and found it to be one of the most interesting towns in France.

Sporting my new French Disorder hat – Thanks, Mitch. I have matching socks now, too.
So many photos of the sea and sky look like impressionist paintings

After hours of touring the walled city, it was now time for my birthday dinner.

Carter picked La Brasserie du Sillion, located on the boardwalk, for the celebration.

It was a great birthday, especially celebrated with these friends.

Le Pourquoi Pas

While in Saint-Malo, Carter discovered a Michelin-starred gem called Pourquoi Pas — literally, “Why Not?” Nestled in Dinard, a charming seaside resort town just across the estuary, the restaurant sits within Castelbrac, a cliffside hotel that seems to hover gracefully above the water. The setting alone promised something special.

As we settled into our table overlooking the bay, the waiter revealed that the evening’s entire tasting menu would be dedicated to one star ingredient: lobster. We exchanged a few curious glances — an all-lobster menu felt like a culinary gamble — but any hesitation quickly faded. Each course unfolded like a love letter to the sea, and by the second bite, our trepidation had given way to pure delight. The surprise hit on the menu was a lobster sausage, easily one of the best lobster preparations and sausages I have had the pleasure of consuming.

After lunch, we took a walking tour around Dinard to appreciate its attractions as a seaside summer resort town. It is truly a lovely place, and I would love to return to stay at Hotel Castlebrac and dine at Pourquoi Pas.

Mont Saint-Michel

Clearly, the potential epic stop on our tour was Mont Saint-Michel. Not only were we visiting the famed ancient Monastery, we were actually spending the night on the rock. In days of old, the island was only accessible during low tide. Later, a road was built for access during any lunar gravitational pull. I visited in the late 1990’s, so I was excited to return with Carter. Today, one parks about 2km away, takes a bus to a stop, and walks several hundred yards to the medieval entrance. As we were staying on the island, we had our suitcases in tow. It was a bitch navigating the exiting crowds up a steep cobblestone path to eventually find our lodging and ascend four flights of narrow stairs, bags in tow. This, however, was a brilliant plan, as we arrived as the crowds were draining down the streets and had the roam of the rock literally to ourselves for the evening.

We spent hours touring the cobblestone paths and ramparts, feeling like we were living in medieval times, centuries ago. After dinner, the sun set and the tide went out – the magic was about to begin. The moon was full and presented one of the most magical sights I have ever witnessed, Mont Saint-Michel a nuit.

The moon was full, and we walked out to the beach at low tide.

Moonlight illumination of the entrance road
Two individuals on a beach at night, one assisting the other in removing their shoe.
My failed attempt to cross the waning tide to reach an Island in the distance.
Hijinks at low tide

Le Mont Saint-Michel

Staying the night on the rock had its advantages. We woke early and were able to beat the morning crowds to tour the monastery.

The cloister
The island I thought I could walk to on the prior evening

Normandy

After our tour of Mont Saint-Michel, we stopped at Omaha Beach in Normandy to pay our respects to the WWII veterans and take a somber moment of remembrance for the sacrifices made for our freedoms.

A view of the American Cemetery and Memorial in Normandy, featuring neatly arranged rows of white grave markers, a reflecting pool, and well-maintained greenery, with visitors walking along the pathways.
A silver abstract sculpture stands on the sandy shore next to the ocean, with people walking in the background along the beach.

Paris

A view of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, decorated with colorful Paralympic symbols. The monument stands tall against a cloudy sky, with people gathered around its base.

We had a few hours in Paris before our flight home, so we toured some sights and caught up with my long-time Friend Xavier. Interesting, I have known Jim and Xavier for 41 years.

A colorful construction banner displaying 'PARIS 2024' with various codes and numbers on it, indicating different sections for the upcoming Olympics.

We enjoyed dinner at a French bistro and drinks at the bar of the famed Hotel de Crillon, where Xavier had performed some DJ sets.

Two men posing together in a stylish hotel lounge, making peace signs with their fingers.
Friends for over 41 years.
A man sitting at a piano in an elegantly decorated lounge with marble walls, cozy lighting, and patrons sitting at tables in the background.
Playing some tunes on the piano

After an amazingly adventurous and exhausting trip, we were set to return home. This was our second international vacation with Jim and Mitch Morgan. Carter and Mitch had been friends for years when, in about 2023, Carter asked if I knew a Jim Morgan. “Yeah, I went to high school with him.” We reconnected and have become fast friends ever since. Father-son trips are the best. It was great to spend so much time with Carter, Rhone, Jim, Mitch, and Sam, exploring Europe on our 2024 National European Vacation.

Looking forward to 2026!

The Photo Montage

Thanks for traveling with TheHad🩵

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