Travels

Kyoto November 2024 ⛩️

Posted by markhadland on
Noma Kyoto popup advertisement featuring the text 'noma kyoto 2024' with a background of textured fabric and mushrooms.

Exploring Kyoto: A Culinary Adventure and Must-See Sights. Join us as we explore Kyoto, savoring Noma’s pop-up dinner, city sights, and unforgettable cuisine in a culinary adventure.

Carter and I planned our trip to Kyoto around our reservation to the Noma Kyoto Popup set for November 5th. We had booked the hard-to-secure reservation 6 months in advance, and the time finally arrived for us to return to Kyoto, one of my favorite cities.

Act 1 – The Arrival

The Ace Hotel Kyoto hosted the pop-up – a lovely place in the heart of Kyoto – design-focused with a very cool vibe. I highly recommend it.

Elevator button panel displaying floors and corresponding labels for guest rooms, rooftop bar, event spaces, and reception area.
A cozy hotel room featuring a neatly made bed with white pillows and a brown coverlet, framed by unique wall art in vibrant red and black, along with stylish wall sconces.
A decorative lamp with a cylindrical fabric shade featuring black handwritten text and symbols, creating an artistic design.

Upon settling in, we secured bar seats at our favorite wine bar, Cave de K, and visited our old friend Tabata-san for wine and fantastic food. We love Cave de K as they serve expensive Champagne by the glass from magnum bottles.

Entrance of Cave de K, a wine bar in Kyoto, featuring wooden double doors with decorative glass panels and a small display of champagne bottles beside the entrance.
A top-down view of a glass display showcasing various bottles of spirits, illuminated from underneath.
A bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée champagne displayed on a wooden bar counter, with an elegant glassware background.
A bartender in a suit pouring champagne into a large glass at a sophisticated bar.
Tabata-san, the Man!
Two men posing for a selfie at a wine bar, holding glasses filled with white wine, with wine storage behind them.
Two servers preparing a selection of cheeses on a wooden board, with wine glasses visible in the background.
The cheese board
A plate of pasta topped with grated cheese, crispy bacon, and black pepper.
Plate of penne pasta with a creamy sauce and black pepper seasoning.
A menu listing premium champagne options, including limited editions by Lady Gaga and Lenny Kravitz, with respective prices.
The best pasta!
Illuminated traditional Japanese lanterns with various names and logos displayed against a wooden background.
A close-up view of illuminated Japanese paper lanterns with various names and logos displayed on them, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.
Japanese lantern with black calligraphy and red accents, featuring bird illustrations.
Sign for Hiragiya Ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, displaying the names in both English and Japanese.

Day 1: Exploring Kyoto

We set off from our hotel to walk the district. I love walking through all the cities I visit as it’s the best way to experience the culture. A few blocks from the hotel, we stumbled upon a Freitag store, a German brand that makes bags from recycled truck tarps. I have followed the brand for years and love it.

A woman holding a blue bag stands in front of a display of colorful bags in a shop.
A blue Freitag bag displayed on a shelf, surrounded by other colorful bags made from recycled materials.
Display of laptop sleeves in various colors on a shelf, with a price tag showing ¥15,600 including tax.
Sign for a seafood restaurant featuring stylized Japanese characters and a brushstroke illustration.
Close-up of a Yakumo sewing machine with spools of thread and a chair nearby, set in a workshop with colorful bags displayed on the wall.
A blue Freitag tote bag displayed on a shelf, with a tag showing its model number and price.
A blue Freitag bag displayed on a shelf in a store, labeled 'F202 LELAND'.
A blue backpack made from recycled materials, displayed on a shelf with a price tag underneath.
A gray and blue Freitag tote bag displayed on a shelf in a store.
A blue Freitag bag with a large black logo displayed on a table.

We walked our way to the famous Nikishi Market to sample some food on a stick.

Exterior view of a beef katsu restaurant in Kyoto, featuring a wooden facade and Japanese signage.
A serene view of a shallow waterway surrounded by trees in Kyoto, with a stone wall lining the banks and a small bridge in the distance.
A lantern displaying the word 'WAGYU' in bold black letters, indicating a restaurant specializing in Wagyu beef, with additional text advertising ice fries, craft beer, and Japanese whisky.
Colorful patterned tiles arranged in a diamond shape with a floral design and various hues, featuring some weathering and a small potted plant at the corner.
A police car in Kyoto, Japan, parked on a city street, featuring a distinctive black and white design with a red flashing light on the roof.
Exterior view of a British pub named Cloud10, featuring a brick facade, large windows, and a white van parked in front.
A traditional Japanese noren (fabric curtain) hanging at the entrance of a store in Kyoto, featuring a blue brushstroke on a brown background.
A street sign displaying various high-fashion brand names, including Balenciaga, Jil Sander, and Off-White, located in an urban setting.
A display of various skewered seafood and snacks at a market, including deep-fried shrimp, sweet egg rolls, and other colorful treats.
A variety of grilled seafood skewers displayed at a market, including shrimp and eel, with price tags visible.
A bustling street scene in Nishiki Market, Kyoto, featuring colorful overhead lights and numerous shop signs. A crowd of people walks through the market, showcasing the lively atmosphere.
Two plates of grilled meat with rice, featuring sliced beef, skewered meat, and a dab of wasabi on a gray backdrop.

Eventually, we had to visit Hafuu, our favorite lunch place, for a Wagyu sandwich.

Text sign reading 'hafuu...' on a textured background
A close-up view of a Wagyu sandwich cut into quarters, served on a plate with pickles on the side and chopsticks resting beside it.
A plate featuring a large piece of tempura fried lobster tail next to a bottle of Beaumont-Creux champagne, showcasing a premium dining experience.
A serene courtyard view at a hotel in Kyoto, featuring lush greenery, stone pathways, and modern architecture. People are walking through the garden area, surrounded by a blend of traditional and contemporary design elements.
A neon depiction of a serene face with intricate jewelry and hands clasped, conveying a sense of calm and spirituality.
A collage of colorful artworks displayed on a wall, featuring various subjects like animals, landscapes, and abstract designs. The display includes hand-drawn illustrations and paintings, with a bicycle partially visible in the foreground.
A modern, minimalist entrance to a building featuring a stone pathway with flowing water and grassy edges, under a cloudy sky.
A view of the modern architecture of the Hotel Seiryu Kyoto Kiyomizu, showcasing balconies, greenery, and a tranquil water feature.
A decorative bonsai tree displayed in a wooden planter, surrounded by moss, inside a modern interior space with wooden paneling and large glass windows.

Day 1 Scene 2

We made our way to Kiyomizu-dera, a beautiful temple and district. I usually stay at the Hotel Seiryu, which is within walking distance of the temple. The pedestrian streets are some of the most popular in all of Kyoto, and my favorite place to explore. The Yasaka temple is located in the area, as is the Park Hyatt, one of the city’s top hotels. We have dined at its Yasaka restaurant a couple of times. I may need to write it up as well.

A busy street in Kyoto featuring traditional architecture, with a five-story pagoda in the background and a crowd of people walking along.
A busy street scene in Kyoto with a five-story pagoda in the background and a cloudy sky.
Two people posing for a selfie in a traditional Japanese street with a pagoda and cloudy sky in the background.
A vibrant scene at Kiyomizu-dera temple in Kyoto, with a crowd of visitors ascending the stone steps amidst lush greenery and traditional Japanese architecture.
Crowd of visitors walking towards the Kiyomizu-dera temple, which features traditional Japanese architecture and vibrant colors, under a cloudy sky.
A three-story red pagoda at Kiyomizu-dera temple in Kyoto, surrounded by visitors and cloudy sky.
View from Kiyomizu-dera temple overlooking a crowded area with traditional architecture in Kyoto during sunset.
View of Kiyomizu-dera temple in Kyoto, Japan, with a cityscape in the background during sunset.
A vibrant three-story pagoda with intricate wooden architecture in an outdoor setting, surrounded by visitors exploring the area.
A bustling street scene in Kyoto during sunset, with crowds of people walking along the road, surrounded by shops and buildings, while the sun sets in the background behind the hills.
A historic pagoda stands prominently among traditional rooftops in a serene Kyoto setting against a cloudy sky.
A bustling street in Kyoto, Japan, lined with traditional buildings and shops, filled with people walking and exploring. The sky shows a soft sunset glow.
A panoramic view of Kyoto featuring a traditional pagoda amidst modern buildings and the distant mountains under a cloudy sky.

After walking through a few areas, we hit the rooftop bar K6 at the top of the Hotel Seiryu.

Rooftop bar in Kyoto with outdoor seating and patio heaters, creating a cozy atmosphere at sunset.
A scenic view of Kyoto at sunset, showcasing the skyline with traditional and modern buildings in the foreground, and distant mountains under a colorful sky.
Two men sitting at a table with outdoor heaters under a twilight sky, in a lively restaurant setting.
A cocktail glass filled with tonic water and ice, featuring a slice of lime, with a bottle of tonic water resting upside down in the glass.
View of the Kyoto skyline at dusk, featuring the illuminations of buildings and the Kyoto Tower in the distance, surrounded by greenery in the foreground.
A panoramic view of Kyoto at dusk, featuring the city skyline with illuminated buildings and the Kyoto Tower against a dramatic orange and dark sky.
Exterior view of the Ace Hotel Kyoto at night, featuring illuminated architecture, trees, and steps leading to the entrance.
Hotel Seiryu
A night view of a traditional Japanese pagoda with intricate wooden architecture, illuminated under the night sky.
A night view of a traditional pagoda in Kyoto, illuminated against the dark sky, surrounded by wooden buildings and people walking in the foreground.
A nighttime view of a narrow street in Kyoto, Japan, featuring traditional buildings and a pagoda illuminated in the background.
Yasaka Pagoda

Day 2 Scene 3

Now it was time to wrap up our evening at the L’Esca Moteur Bar, famed for its magic cocktails. Cristophe, the bartender and owner, is from Montreal, mais bien sur! This has become a favorite stop in Kyoto and is a must-visit destination. His creations are literal magic. Light, smoke, and fire are elementally manifested from his cocktail alchemistry.

A serene night view of a narrow, illuminated waterway lined with trees and traditional buildings in Kyoto, Japan.
Stairs leading to L'Esca Moteur Bar, illuminated by small lights, featuring a sign with a man on a unicycle.
Sign for L'Esca Moteur Bar featuring a skull and crossbones design with the text 'Poison and Elixirs served here.'
A dimly lit bar atmosphere featuring bartenders preparing drinks behind the counter, with a mix of patrons in the background and warm lighting setting a cozy vibe.
A bartender in a hat pouring a colorful liquid from a small bottle into a beaker, surrounded by glassware and dim candlelight.
A bartender wearing a tall hat prepares a drink at a dimly lit bar, surrounded by various bottles and glasses. The scene is illuminated with a blue light from a drink on the counter.
Bartender performing a cocktail demonstration in a lively bar, featuring a smoky effect, with shelves of liquor bottles in the background.
A decorative glass sphere resting on a candle holder, labeled 'Vaportini,' placed on a bar countertop with a dimly lit background.
A close-up of a cocktail in a glass, featuring a golden liquid and a twist of orange peel garnish.
A close-up view of a cocktail with a lemon wheel garnish, placed on a textured dark surface.
Three men posing for a photo inside a dimly lit bar, with a decorative background that includes bottles and ambient lighting.
Le magicien

Day 2: Exploring Kyoto

Day 2 was November 5th, the evening of our highly anticipated Noma dinner. We set off to walk tens of thousands of steps to build an incredible appetite. As luck would have it, we found a famous ramen place called No Ramen No Life – renowned for its flaming ramen.

A vibrant decorative sign featuring a ramen bowl with a stylized flame design, displaying the phrase 'NO RAMEN NO LIFE' and the name 'MENBAKA' underneath.
Two men clinking oversized beer mugs in front of a colorful ramen-themed backdrop in Kyoto.
View of a bustling restaurant kitchen with chefs preparing food, colorful mural on the wall, and various cooking equipment in use.
Two men smiling and raising beer mugs in front of a ramen shop in Kyoto, Japan, with a colorful sign in the background.
A chef performing a dramatic cooking demonstration with flames erupting from a grill, while a surprised customer is seated nearby, under a colorful mural depicting Japanese scenery.
Two men sitting at a restaurant table, enjoying bowls of ramen and drinks, with a colorful mural in the background depicting a traditional Japanese scene.
A person holding chopsticks with noodles above a bowl of ramen, featuring eggs and greens, in a restaurant setting.
Two men smiling and enjoying a meal at a ramen restaurant in Kyoto, featuring bowls of ramen, gyoza, fried rice, and drinks.
A person smiling while holding chopsticks above a bowl of ramen featuring noodles, vegetables, and meat, with a vibrant Japanese-themed backdrop.
Interior of a ramen restaurant featuring a colorful mural with a traditional Japanese woman and bold text saying 'NO RAMEN NO LIFE'. People are seated at the bar enjoying their meals.

Day 2 Scene 2

After our flaming hot lunch, we walked back to central Kyoto and our hotel. I noticed on the map that there was a Technics Cafe, the famed HiFi brand. As Carter and I both love HiFi audio, we decided to check it out. After wandering around somewhat disoriented due to construction, we found the cafe. We were stunned to see a 2-channel, top-end Technics setup and a cafe. Set in a minimalistic space of concrete, we ordered coffee and soon had the place to ourselves. They had a vinyl setup and an album by Nujabes, a Japanese trip-hop artist we had discovered on our previous trip – we were in audio heaven.

A minimalist black and white illustration of a chef standing in front of a cooking station, with kitchen tools, a teapot, and two turntables, featuring a simple design style.
A high-end audio setup featuring two tall speakers flanking a multi-device audio rack, displaying a sleek and modern design in a minimalist setting.
Technics’ highest HiFi 2-channel system
A man in a black coat is handling a vinyl record near a high-end audio setup featuring two tall speakers and a rack of audio components, placed on a carpeted floor against a white backdrop.
A sleek, black Technics speaker system with multiple drivers, displayed against a plain background.
A stack of high-fidelity audio equipment featuring Technics components, including a turntable on top, a CD player, and an amplifier, all organized on a sleek, modern stand.
A coffee machine with a glass carafe sits on a shelf beside a collection of records, including a prominent Daft Punk album.

We got to chatting with the technician on site, when Carter shared that he owned a Technics SL-1200 turntable. The man informed us that he was the lead engineer on that model of turntable. We were definitely in the presence of audio royalty—such a serendipitous encounter.

Technics turntable with a vinyl record playing, showcasing a high-quality audio setup.
A close-up view of a Technics music server and component on a black shelf, displaying its controls and digital readout.
A close-up view of a Technics stereo integrated amplifier, featuring controls for volume, input selection, and a display meter, sitting on a wooden shelf.
A close-up of a vinyl record with the title 'FOSSIL COCOON the music of K. YOSHIMATSU', partially visible among other records.
A close-up of a vinyl record titled 'Floating Points - Cascade' featuring a colorful design. The label includes track names and details about the record.
Close-up of an album cover by KMRU titled 'Peel', featuring a blue background with abstract artwork.
A group photo featuring three smiling individuals, standing closely together with a light-colored background.
Mr. Hiroshi Miura
Three men posing together in a modern indoor setting, with an audio equipment setup in the background.
Mr. SL-1200! Epic.
A hand-painted sign on a wall featuring two figures and text that reads 'SAKE Cocktail BEER Whisky Food'.
The entrance of a Bianchi bike store in Kyoto, featuring a logo and a stylized map of Italy in red, white, and green colors.
A wall display featuring numerous wooden paintbrushes, each with a swatch of paint in various colors applied to the bristles, arranged in a systematic pattern.
Random imagery for the interlude…

Day 2 Scene 3- The Noma Dinner

I’ve already shared the full story of our dinner on my blog — it’s one worth revisiting there.

A collection of beautifully presented dishes featuring various seafood and seasonal ingredients, including crab, shellfish, and leafy vegetables, arranged artistically on rustic plates and garnished with colorful leaves.
Noma Kyoto
A collection of handwritten Japanese menus displayed on a wall, featuring various food items in vibrant ink on colorful paper.
A row of red mini-vans parked in a dimly lit garage, with bright overhead lights illuminating the vehicles.
Random night photos

Day 3 Ritz Carlton, Nikishi Market, Pontocho

We started our day by relocating to the Ritz Carleton, an upgrade from the Ace Hotel (which was great). Close to our wine bar and featuring excellent restaurants on site, the hotel is a marvel of modern architecture that harmonizes with nature. We absolutely love this place.

The exterior sign of The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto, illuminated against a textured wall.
A bonsai tree sits on a table with a scenic view of mountains and a city in the background, illuminated by natural sunlight.
Interior view of a modern restaurant with wooden decor, featuring a reception area and dining tables in a spacious setting.
A sculptural centerpiece made of dark textured material with multiple holes, displayed in a modern restaurant setting with elegant furniture and a warm ambiance.
A narrow, picturesque street in Kyoto with traditional wooden buildings, shops, and a clear blue sky.
Exterior of a restaurant featuring a sign that reads 'STEAK & WINE' along with a playful slogan 'NO MEAT NO LIFE' on the glass door.
View of a narrow urban alley with towering buildings on either side and electrical wires crisscrossing above.

We walked along the famous Pontocho Alley, lined with restaurants, bars, shops, and other interesting things to explore. We knew of a ramen joint near the Niskiki Market, 1000 Winds, so we made our way back there. There is usually a three-hour wait, so our 90-minute exercise in patience was blessedly short.

Entrance of Ramen Sen no Kaze restaurant in Kyoto, featuring a black curtain with gold lettering and leafy green plants.
Two women prepare food in a small kitchen, with a focus on grilled meat displayed on a wooden platter.
A close-up of a delicious bowl of ramen topped with slices of pork, green onions, and vegetables, accompanied by a wooden spoon. Condiments are visible in the background.
A decorative black cat figurine with a raised paw and a red collar, holding an abacus. The figure is set against a wooden backdrop with other items visible in the background.
The pork-based ramen was definitely worth the wait.

After lunch, we returned to our hotel to enjoy the architecture, lighting, spaces, restaurants, and environment.

Night view of a serene water feature and landscaped area in a contemporary hotel setting.
A minimalist dining room featuring a long stone table and wooden chairs, with subtle lighting and a modern design aesthetic.
Interior view of a stylish dining area featuring wooden tables and chairs, with warm lighting and decorative bamboo screens, creating a cozy atmosphere.
Interior view of a sleek and modern lobby with a gold-patterned ceiling, dark tiled floor, and a small decorative plant on a pedestal.
Interior view of a modern hotel lobby featuring a staircase, decorative lighting, and stylish design elements.
Interior view of a modern restaurant featuring wooden tables and cozy seating, with warm lighting and decorative plants.
Sign for Chef's Table by Katsuhito Inoue, featuring elegant typography against a textured wall.

After some dinner drinks, we explored Pontocho in search of some good Japanese food, finally settling on some sushi.

Plate of sushi featuring three pieces: two slices of red tuna and one slice of marbled fatty tuna.
A young man standing next to a large red lantern with a tiger design in a street setting.
A decorative paper lantern featuring red fish designs, hanging from a ceiling.
A traditional Japanese paper lantern with the text 'KOME FUKU' displayed prominently.
A peaceful night scene along a narrow canal in Kyoto, illuminated by soft lights from nearby buildings and lanterns, surrounded by greenery.
A white noren (fabric curtain) featuring a bold black illustration of a roaring tiger's head.
A traditional paper lantern with the word 'Sushi' written in Japanese characters and English, hanging at the entrance of a sushi restaurant.
A selection of Champagne bottles stored in a cooler, featuring different brands and varieties.
After wandering the lantern-lit alleys of Pontocho, we miraculously found ourselves at Cave de K to finish a great day with some bubbly.

Day 4 Osaka

Carter and I woke early to meet his friend Matt in Osaka for the day. Matt was staying there with his mom, and Carter and I had yet to visit Osaka, known as Little Tokyo. Osaka is a city of approximately 3 million people, which is a decently sized but not overwhelming population. We were excited to explore Dotonbori Street, renowned for its vibrant atmosphere, large animated signs, diverse street food, numerous restaurants, and lively nightlife.

A large red octopus sculpture with the name 'Kukuru' prominently displayed on a restaurant facade, against a clear blue sky.
A large, colorful hand holding a sushi piece, prominently displayed outside a restaurant in a busy urban setting.
A large, colorful entrance sign of a restaurant featuring a giant caricature of a muscular man with an exaggerated facial expression, located in Osaka, Japan. The sign is prominently displayed above the entrance, attracting attention from passersby.
A large decorative statue of a smiling sushi chef wearing a headband, seated on red cushions, with a wooden sign beside it displaying Japanese characters.
A selfie of two individuals standing together in a bustling urban area, with various colorful signs and advertisements in the background, including a large golden figure.
A vibrant street scene in Osaka featuring colorful billboards and signage along a canal, with people walking and boats on the water under a clear blue sky.
A vibrant sign featuring a large golden statue of a smiling face holding a tray with various food items, including skewered and fried delicacies, set against a backdrop of colorful storefronts in a bustling urban area.
A vibrant view of Dotonbori Street in Osaka, Japan, featuring a large yellow Ferris wheel and colorful billboards reflecting in the river. Crowds are visible on the pedestrian walkway along the canal.
Sign of a street food stall featuring a large red octopus figure with food items, located in the Dotonbori area of Osaka, Japan.
A large, vibrant red crab sculpture displayed prominently on the exterior of a building, capturing attention with its detailed features.
A large advertising mural of a running man representing Glico, a popular Japanese snack company, with the Glico logo above him in vibrant colors.
A close-up view of a white concrete building facade featuring a zigzag fire escape staircase.
A bustling urban scene along a waterway in Osaka, Japan, featuring colorful commercial buildings and storefronts on both sides, with crowds of people and a clear blue sky above.
Three individuals smiling for a photo in front of colorful storefronts and large advertisements in an urban area, likely in Japan.
The famous Glico Running Man of Osaka
A close-up view of a vendor preparing takoyaki, with a tray of golden-brown balls cooking in the background and a person in a red shirt drizzling sauce over them.
A vendor preparing takoyaki, a popular Japanese street food, with golden-brown balls on a grill while wearing a red shirt.
Vendors preparing takoyaki balls on a street stall in Kyoto, Japan, with a crowd in the background.
A street vendor cooking takoyaki, with a steaming grill filled with round, golden-brown balls of the popular Japanese street food. The vendor is wearing a red shirt and gloves, preparing the dishes while a customer watches from the front.
A bustling street food stall in Kyoto featuring vibrant red lanterns and a sign for takoyaki, with customers in line eager to buy snacks.
Enjoying Takoyaki
Brightly colored strawberry sign above a dessert shop showcasing a menu of strawberry treats.
A serving of takoyaki, a popular Japanese street food, topped with bonito flakes and drizzled with sauce and mayonnaise, placed on a pink paper napkin.
Display case showing a bluefin tuna weighing 56 kg, with signage indicating its weight.
A close-up view of a freshly made Japanese okonomiyaki topped with mayonnaise, served on a hot grill.
Three freshly cooked okonomiyaki pancakes on a hot griddle, topped with a swirl of mayonnaise and sauce, steam rising from the dish.
Two plates of okonomiyaki, a Japanese savory pancake, topped with green seaweed flakes, served sizzling on a grill with a beer in the background.
A close-up view of two freshly prepared okonomiyaki on a hot griddle, one topped with a green sauce and the other with mayonnaise and seafood, beside a glass of beer.
Three freshly cooked Okonomiyaki pancakes sizzling on a teppanyaki grill, with side items visible, and a glass of beer in the background.
Three freshly prepared okonomiyaki pancakes sizzling on a hot griddle, topped with various sauces and ingredients, with a glass of beer in the background.
Enjoying Okonomiyaki – savory Japanese pancakes

After sampling several courses of Japanese specialties, we explored the central shopping district of Osaka.

An illuminated hallway with circular cutouts in the walls, featuring colorful lights and a reflective floor.
A stylish interior featuring a red sound system with speakers, surrounded by circular seats, and illuminated by modern pendant lights.
Interior view of a stylish bar with a circular counter, featuring elegant lighting and bar stools. Staff members are seen preparing drinks behind the counter.
A nighttime street scene in a city, featuring trees illuminated with vibrant purple and yellow lights, along with people walking and a vehicle parked nearby.
The vibe was Christmas
Colorful neon sign featuring dancing cats and Japanese text, prominently displayed in an entertainment district.
A large, shiny golden astronaut sculpture displayed indoors, reflecting the surrounding environment and logo of Omega.
A vertically oriented illuminated signboard showcasing various business names and restaurant signs in Japanese and English, set against a dark nighttime backdrop.

Then we spied some Wagyu!

A close-up view of a beautifully marbled slice of Wagyu beef, showcasing its rich pink color and intricate fat distribution, stored in a refrigerator.
Three people at a dining table holding glasses of wine with a platter of raw ingredients, including beef and vegetables, set for cooking.
A display case filled with various cuts of Wagyu beef, labeled in Japanese. The beef appears marbled and well-packaged.
A chef in a white hat and uniform skillfully prepares Kobe beef at a teppanyaki grill, with various ingredients and utensils on the table.
Three pieces of sushi with marbled beef on a black plate, accompanied by wasabi and pickled ginger, placed on a textured table.
A chef seasoning pieces of Wagyu beef and preparing vegetables on a grill plate in a restaurant setting.
A man and a sushi chef pose for a photo together, smiling in front of a red wall.
Yes chef!

After an excellent teppanyaki-style wagyu beef meal, we took the train back to Kyoto to visit some old friends.

Three smiling people pose for a selfie in an indoor setting, with a warm atmosphere.

Day 5

A person stands on large stone stepping stones in a river under a clear blue sky, with buildings and trees in the background.
Steps from the Ritz
A clear river flows through a green landscape under a bright blue sky, with buildings and trees visible along the banks.

While in Osaka, Matt was aware of a famous restaurant (more of a hole-in-the-wall) in Kyoto that only served Japanese omelets with rice and gravy – the famed Kichikichi Omurice. They have two seatings a day for about eight people. Reservations are dropped daily at 9:00 a.m., making them challenging to obtain. Fortune once again smiled upon us. Operated by Chef Motokichi Yukimura, Kichikichi is pure theater, as the preparation, cooking, and final reveal of the omelet over rice are experienced – sometimes sliced open while in mid-flight.

A menu sign for Kichikichi Omurice featuring a chef in a red hat cooking in a kitchen, with flames erupting from a pan.

https://kichikichi.com/en

A chef in a kitchen wearing a red hat and black shirt stands behind the counter, surrounded by pots and kitchen equipment.
A busy kitchen scene in a restaurant showcasing a chef in a red hat preparing dishes with various cooking equipment and utensils visible in the background.
A chef in a kitchen wearing a red hat with various cooking equipment and utensils in the background.
Plate of Japanese omurice topped with rich brown sauce, served alongside a glass of beer.
A colorful painting of an elderly person with bright orange hair, wearing a black shirt, smiling against a blue background.
A plate of Kichikichi Omurice featuring a fluffy omelet topped with a savory brown sauce, served on a circular dish with the restaurant's logo.
Three people smiling and posing together, with one person in a red shirt and two in casual clothing. They are inside a warmly lit restaurant with wooden accents.
A group of three people posing together in a restaurant. They are smiling and making hand gestures. The backdrop shows a warm wooden interior.
Three people posing together for a photo inside a restaurant. Two men stand beside a woman wearing a red hat and cheerful expression, with all of them smiling and making playful gestures.
Three people posing for a photo, two men and a woman, in a warmly lit room with wooden decor.

Chef Motokichi Yukimura exudes pure joy as he prepares his omurice. After lunch, we walked again through the Pontocho area, paralleling the river, and visiting some of the large department stores in central Kyoto. In Japan, these stores offer a wide range of products and typically feature a food and grocery department located on the basement level. These are impressive food halls featuring a wide range of interesting, unusual, exotic food and luxurious goods. I love food shopping in Japan.

Bunches of purple sweet potatoes wrapped in plastic packaging, displayed for sale in a market.
A bronze statue of a man standing on a pedestal in a shallow stream, surrounded by trees with green leaves and autumn foliage, under a clear blue sky.
A display of pink radishes wrapped in plastic, arranged on a wooden platter, showcasing their vibrant color and green tops.
Colorful fishing floats bobbing in a shallow stream next to a stone wall, surrounded by greenery.
Two men posing for a selfie in front of a patterned green wall featuring the word 'Goyard'.
Goyard, our favorite
A decorative display featuring a small tree with green rectangular plaques, each inscribed with characters, set against a colorful background. There is also a small pouch and a container beside the tree.

After some shopping, we returned to catch the sunset at Kiyomizu-dera for our final outing.

A street in Kyoto during sunset, with people walking between traditional wooden buildings and stone pavement.
A bustling street scene in Kyoto during evening hours, with pedestrians walking past traditional shops under a blue sky.
A busy street in Kyoto filled with people walking, featuring traditional wooden buildings and a clear sky with scattered clouds.
A crowded street in Kyoto with traditional wooden buildings under a blue sky, featuring people walking and enjoying the atmosphere.
Kiyomizu-dera at sunset

For our last meal in Kyoto, we opted to dine at our hotel’s sushi restaurant, which is well-renowned for its excellent fish.

Sign displaying the name 'Mizuki' in English and Japanese characters against a dark background.
A traditional Japanese restaurant setting featuring a wooden counter with dishes, utensils, and a beautifully arranged zen garden display.
A dining table set with wooden utensils and a small bowl, overlooking a garden with lush greenery in the background.
A wooden sushi box containing various types of prepared seafood, including octopus, fish, and other ingredients, neatly arranged.
A sushi chef presenting a wooden tray filled with various types of sushi and sashimi, showcasing a selection of fresh seafood in an elegant restaurant setting.
A skilled chef wearing a traditional white uniform and hat is preparing sushi at a sushi bar, with a beautifully designed interior visible in the background.
A beautifully presented dish of crab meat garnished with fresh green leaves and a slice of lime, served on a decorative white plate with a light blue design.
A red plate featuring assorted pieces of fish garnished with wasabi and sprinkled salt.
A beautifully presented dish featuring sashimi with various garnishes, including herbs and thinly sliced vegetables, in a delicate broth.
A small bowl containing a creamy orange soup with chunks of meat and beans, placed on a textured plate with a red spoon beside it.
A close-up image of a red-bowled dish containing broth, garnished with sliced mushrooms and herbs.
Close-up of a bottle of sake with a blue label featuring gold lettering, placed on a wooden table.
A close-up of several bottles of sake on a table, with one prominently featured in the foreground, showing a rich label design.
A close-up of a traditional Japanese sake bottle with a black label and gold lettering, placed on a red wooden table with a glass of sake nearby.
Bar setting with three bottles of sake and glassware on a red countertop, with sushi chefs in the background.
We enjoyed a trio of house sakis
A piece of sushi with a slice of tuna on a textured plate.
A piece of sushi topped with green seaweed sits on a textured gray plate.
A piece of sushi on a textured plate, garnished with a small piece of seaweed, accompanied by chopsticks.
A piece of sushi with shrimp on a textured plate, accompanied by chopsticks.
A piece of sushi made from a translucent seafood, presented on a textured plate.
Close-up of a piece of sushi on a textured plate, showcasing delicate fish atop a small mound of rice.
A piece of sushi on a textured ceramic plate, showcasing delicate fish atop a bed of rice.
A beautifully crafted piece of sushi on a textured plate, featuring fish with a red and pink gradient and a small dollop of green garnish on top.
A delicate dish featuring sea urchin on top of small salmon roe, served in a glass bowl on a decorative plate with a red spoon beside it.
A piece of sushi featuring red tuna on a textured, light-colored plate.
A blue plate with two pieces of sushi: one with eel topped with savory sauce and the other piece with a creamy white filling, on a red table.
A piece of sushi served on a blue plate, showcasing its intricate details against a textured red background.
Two pieces of yellow Japanese omelette (tamago) served on a textured plate.
A beautifully presented dessert featuring a scoop of sorbet topped with a slice of dried lemon, served over colorful fruit granita in a clear glass bowl on a decorative plate.
Sushi course

We had an excellent final meal and a short walk home. I suspect we revisited Cave de K. The next day, we took the Shinkansen to the airport, but had time at the Ritz for a final club sandwich. I do love a good club sandwich at a hotel – my guilty little pleasure.

A gourmet club sandwich with layers of ham, lettuce, cheese, and cucumber, served on a fine china plate alongside pickles.

We caught the fast train to Hanada, and we love flying Delta One – speedy check-in, and the lounge there features a ramen counter with some of the best ramen we have enjoyed. We love our travel rituals. After boarding the flight and around the time of takeoff, the Captain announced that our plane had a mechanical issue and that no parts were available at the airport. He opted to immediately deplane and let people stay the night until tomorrow’s flight. Instead of the low-rent airport hotel where Delta was housing passengers, Carter booked a room at the Tokyo Edition, and we had sufficient time for dinner. We immediately booked Peter Lugar, the storied Brooklyn steakhouse, of which, ironically, Carter and I have only dined at the Tokyo outpost. A week of wagyu and one craves a nice chewy prime steak. Ironically, similar to wagyu being flown to the US, Peter Lugar flies Prime Steak to Japan.

Sign of Peter Luger restaurant, established in 1887, displayed against a brick wall.
Exterior view of the Peter Luger restaurant at night, featuring illuminated signage and a brick facade.
Two martini glasses with olives on a table at Peter Luger Steak House, with the restaurant's menu visible underneath.
Two beautifully plated steaks served at Peter Luger, accompanied by a side of sauce and butter on a wooden table.
Juicy slices of grilled wagyu beef on a plate, garnished with a small yellow cow figurine.
Chewy goodness.

Not only did we have time for one last dinner in Tokyo, but we also visited one of our favorite cocktail bars, Bar Trench, owned by my friend Rogerio Igarashi Vaz.

Two men sitting inside a dimly lit bar, one smiling and holding a drink while the other looks relaxed, both wearing suits.
Rogerio and I on a prior trip – he is the Most Interesting Man in Tokyo
Exterior view of Bar Trench, featuring a dark wooden facade with gold lettering spelling 'BAR TRENCH,' decorated with greenery.
A close-up of a bottle of Butterfly Classic Absinthe with a decorative label, placed on a bar counter next to a cocktail glass and a small dish of assorted nuts.
A cocktail served in a coupe glass with a lemon twist garnish, placed on a circular coaster labeled 'TRENCH'. The background features a blurred bar setting.
Three people posing outside Bar Trench at night. The bar has a stylish black exterior with a sign displaying its name. The setting appears cozy and atmospheric.
The Corpse Reviver No. 2
Two bartenders preparing drinks at a stylish bar named Trench, with a wall of various liquor bottles behind them.
Two men sitting at a table in a dimly-lit bar, each holding a cocktail, with one man slightly closer to the camera.
Group photo inside a bar with four people, two holding drinks, a bartender in a white coat, and a friendly atmosphere.
Three people posing in front of Bar Trench, a stylish bar with an inviting facade in Kyoto, Japan.
A panoramic view of a city skyline illuminated at night, showcasing tall buildings and city lights against a dark, foggy sky.
Tokyo a nuit

Another fantastic trip is in the books. See you soon, Kyoto.

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