Lucca is an ancient walled city in the heart of Tuscany. Carter and I had visited briefly on a previous YPO Supercar trip, but now we had a few hours to explore this charming town.
Our concierge in Florence recommended a charming, Michelin-recommended restaurant, Buca di Sant’Antonio, located in the town’s center. Rustic charm was matched by rustic, hearty cuisine. It’s been operating since 1782!
A document dated April 4, 1782, drawn up to prohibit the introduction and sale of “foreign wines” in the state, entrusted some notables of the city with the task of “supervising” the various taverns, including the “Osteria a S. Antonio”, so that orders were “punctually carried out”. Not only is it undeniable that this is the current “Buca di S. Antonio” (the ancient Tuscan word “Buca” being equivalent to “Taverna” or “Osteria”), but the fact that in 1782 it was still referred to as “Osteria a S. Antonio” (meaning near S. Antonio) suggests that it existed even earlier, when the Hospital of S. Antonio in Poggio operated on the corner between Piazzetta dei Cocomeri and Via della Cervia, from 1406 to 1610. During the 19th century, when the Horse Post Station was built in the open space created following demolition between Piazzetta dei Cocomeri and Corte Campana, the “Buca” still served not only as an inn, but also as a stable and stable. After the closure of the post office, and up to the present day, the “Buca” continued to operate and, thanks to the careful management of owners Franco Barbieri and Giuliano Pacini, has remained one of Lucca’s most characteristic establishments.
I would return here in a heartbeat.
After a hearty lunch at a fantastic restaurant, Carter and I stumbled upon a ceramic pottery and plate shop. An old friend of mine, Lou Gerkin, had a beautiful home in Marin County, CA, and his kitchen shelves were lined with beautifully hand-painted plates from Sienna. These always inspired me and took advantage of this serendipitous opportunity to start our collection. The woman running the shop asked me to stop buying things as she said there would be nothing left for others. Below are some of the treasures we had shipped home. I use these for entertaining, especially around the holidays. Fortunately, the shop takes commissions, so in the event of breakage or needing to expand the collection, one can always source more. If you’re interested, don’t hesitate to get in touch with me, as these are beautiful, functioning works of art.
Chiesa di San Michele in Foro, built in the 1100s. We filled the square with Supercars on our prior visit.
When we first arrived in town, we accidentally drove through the pedestrian zone, finally escaping to a proper road. After many dirty looks, we parked in a no-parking zone. I received a ticket from a collections agency about three years later, which I promptly paid—a fitting souvenir. Lucca is a charming town, and I look forward to visiting again soon.
Cheers, TheHad 🩵.
We loved Lucca although it was probably 40 years ago. I’m sure it hadn’t changed!