Travels

National Lampoons European Vacation 2024 🧜🏻‍♀️🏎️💨🏰🍾🏔️

Posted by markhadland on
Group selfie of friends enjoying a vibrant street in a European city during a vacation.

European Vacation 2024 Roll Call – All present and accounted for!

Carter and I were brainstorming ideas for my 57th birthday. We love to travel, and had been on a trip with Jim and Mitch Morgan to Dublin for the boys’ birthdays. I like the band Air, and they were playing in Copenhagen and later in Saint-Malo, France, two weeks apart. I suggested we see the band in both places and plan a trip around these endpoints to connect the dots. Our good friend Paul Ellington would be in Copenhagen along with the resident Viking, Sebastian. Unkle Sean agreed to join on the Denmark leg as he had nearby business. We like cars, so I suggested renting BMW’s in Stuttgart for all the driving, as Stuttgart is home to both the Porsche and Mercedes museums. I also noticed that the famous Nürburgring racetrack was nearby. What about a few laps around the track? Rhone is a Luxemburger, so that was definitely a required stop. We like Champagne – Reims it is. In 1990, I visited the Brittany and Normandy towns of Saint-Malo, a famous walled city, and the iconic Mont Saint-Michel. I said to Carter, ‘You must see these.’ Paris seemed like a decent departure point. The route was set, and soon the planning of the itinerary commenced. National Lampoon’s European Vacation was set!

First stop – Copenhagen

A vibrant scene at Nyhavn, Copenhagen, featuring colorful buildings, a bustling waterfront lined with cafes, and a classic boat moored in the canal.
Colorful buildings along the Nyhavn waterfront in Copenhagen, bustling with people and reflecting in the water.

I love the Nyhaven area for its colorful, picturesque buildings, touristy cafes, and hip vibe. It never gets boring and is such an eminently iconic area in Copenhagen.

A collage of various textured sections, featuring shades of blue, green, and gray, arranged in a grid pattern.
A collage of nine colored squares, featuring hues of yellow, orange, pink, light blue, dark blue, green, and red, creating a vibrant and textured pattern.
A collage of textured blue and gray wall surfaces, featuring various shades including light blue, turquoise, gray, and beige.
The iconic colors of Nyhaven
Group selfie in Copenhagen, featuring three men smiling in front of colorful buildings and a church tower, with a cloudy sky overhead.
The start of our Copenhagen tour

Denmark is known for its Danish design. I have loved Danish design since I was a teenager, and it’s always a joy to walk around the numerous furniture studios, searching for the next must-have piece.

A painting featuring a large white circle against a dark background, with the words 'LA LUNA' written at the top.
A modern interior display featuring a round glass coffee table with a unique support on one side, surrounded by minimalist furniture including a wooden storage unit, an elephant sculpture, and a contemporary television.
Sign of the MAROKK store hanging above the entrance, with reflections of surrounding buildings visible in the glass.
A stylish black sneaker placed on a wooden table next to a catalog displaying various fabric swatches in different colors and textures.
A brown leather armchair with wooden armrests, positioned in a stylish interior setting featuring a grey sofa and decorative elements.
A stylish table lamp with a wooden base and circular lampshade, set on a light-colored floor next to a gray sofa.
High-end audio equipment featuring two tall speakers and a central display unit with music albums visible, set against a white backdrop.
The famed Band & Olfsen Beosound 9000 at their flagship store
A pink sign announcing the opening of an exciting new store soon.
A hand holding a cocktail glass with a frothy surface, sitting on a dark table alongside a water bottle and other drinkware.
Two men sitting at an outdoor table by a canal in Copenhagen, enjoying drinks and chatting. One man is wearing a pink polo shirt and sunglasses, while the other is dressed in a light blue patterned shirt.
A variety of gourmet hors d'oeuvres on a table, including small pancakes, creamy spreads, and garnishes, accompanied by a glass of sparkling wine and an assortment of nuts.

We made our obligatory pilgrimage to Restaurant Schonnemann.

Restaurant Schønnemann
A young man smiling while sitting at a dining table, with an older man in a suit standing behind him, both enjoying a moment at a restaurant.
A group photo showing a young man sitting in front, smiling, with two older men standing behind him in a restaurant setting. One older man is wearing a white shirt and tie, while the other is dressed in a pink shirt. The atmosphere is casual and friendly.
We had to add some new pictures of Michael
A busy street scene in Copenhagen, showing people walking along a cobblestone path with modern buildings and shops lining the sides.
A person wearing a pink shirt playfully interacting with a bronze statue in a public area, surrounded by trees and modern buildings.
Signage for Norse Projects at number 41, featuring blue neon lights against a cloudy sky.
City sights
A close-up of a pole covered in various colorful stickers and decals, including advertisements for tattoo services and the words 'I ♥ RHEDEN'.
A framed colorful artwork featuring a topless figure with the words 'MARTINI' and 'OLIVE' along with artistic elements like flowers and foliage.
A collage of colorful concert and event posters displayed on a wall, featuring various artists and events, including 'Queens of the Stone Age', 'AIR', and 'Jorja Smith', with a vibrant urban aesthetic.
A close-up view of a painted wall featuring the word 'BAR' in bold, black letters on a textured white background.

Watch Buying

Watch buying is a tradition on the Hadland vacations. I famously tell my sons and their friends, I buy, I do not shop, period. I like watches. Besides fine dining, I travel to buy watches, Moncler jackets I don’t really need, but really want, and take many photos of interesting things to me.

I initially visited the Omega store, one of my favorite brands. Carter told Mitch ‘Do not let my Dad go watch shopping’. Mitch is great at following instructions. Soon, I was sharing the art of buying. Walk into the store, request some Champagne, and let the sellers entice the buyers.

Two men sitting on a couch in a luxury store, one making a peace sign and the other smiling.
A man in a pink shirt and glasses is discussing a watch purchase with a female shop attendant in a luxury watch store, with a champagne glass held in the foreground.
A young man examines watches in a display case while using a smartphone to take notes or check information.
Sam on Damage Control, sort of!
A man and a woman posing together, both smiling, with a bottle of Hendrick's gin held in front of them. The background has leafy plants and a textured wall.
Close-up of a wrist wearing a silver and blue Breitling watch with a mesh strap, showcasing its intricate design and features.
A close-up view of a glass filled with blue liquid and ice, resting on a circular table. In the background, a jacket and an object that appears to be a clock are partially visible.
Close-up of an Omega Seamaster watch on a wrist with a textured background.
Two smiling men holding drinks while posing for a photo in front of a decorative background.
Close-up of an Omega Seamaster watch on a person's wrist, featuring a black dial with turquoise accents and a rubber strap, with a blurred background of cobblestone street and a person walking.
Happy Birthday to me!

Now, as fate would have it, Swatch was dropping a scarce watch, the Omega/Swatch Super Blue Moon. Sold for only about 22 days, and available only in Omega boutiques, I spent two days waiting until after closing to secure the rare timepiece. Sebastian was good enough to accompany me on both outings. Each time, the person ahead of us, after queuing, would post-closing secure their treasure, and when it was our turn, there would be no booty left. I was less than pleased. After explaining my plight to the lovely people at the Omega boutique, I was informed by my salesperson that she had called the European manager of Swatch and pulled some strings on my behalf. On our next Swatch store queue outing, we finally secured our treasure! I guess it helped that I purchased a nice Omega for my birthday.

Two men taking a selfie outdoors, wearing sunglasses, with people and a restaurant in the background.
Two men posing for a photo in front of a Swatch store, with one man making a peace sign behind the other.
Two friends happily displaying their Omega and Swatch watch boxes under a festive outdoor canopy.
Matchy Matchy!
Two men posing for a selfie at an outdoor café, wearing sunglasses and casual attire.
Two men posing for a selfie outside the Swatch store, with a crowd in the background.
A smiling man sitting at an outdoor café table, holding a watch or similar item, with colorful buildings and greenery in the background. He is wearing a blue jacket and appears happy.
A group of three friends enjoying drinks at an outdoor café with a relaxed atmosphere, seated at a table with beers and a takeaway bag visible.
A group of three young men in a stylish setting, one wearing sunglasses and a hat, holding a champagne glass, while two others sit in front, one looking at a phone.

Next some city touring was in order.

View of a historic building with a green dome, surrounded by visitors in a cobblestone square under partly cloudy skies.
A bronze statue of a mermaid sitting on a rock by the water, with a modern building in the background.
A young man stands on a city street wearing sunglasses and a casual outfit, holding a beverage. A scenic backdrop of buildings and clouds can be seen in the background.
Exterior view of a historic palace building with large windows and a grand entrance, set against a cloudy sky, with visitors in the foreground.
A group of royal guards in traditional uniforms stands in formation outside a grand building, with a crowd of onlookers observing the ceremony.
Two young men posing playfully on a cannon, one standing with arms outstretched and the other peeking through a pirate telescope.
A person standing on a grassy area with arms outstretched, wearing sunglasses and a floral shirt, with a bright sun and scattered clouds in the background.
A young man wearing a white shirt and dark pants posing playfully while sitting on an old cannon in a green park. He has a black scarf draped around his shoulders and is smiling with his arms outstretched.
A crowd of people at a concert, with fog and smoke effects surrounding the stage, which is brightly lit in the background.
Two young men smiling and posing together in a vibrant, brightly lit nightclub with colorful graffiti in the background.
A young man in a white shirt holds a drink and smiles, with a lively outdoor festival scene behind him featuring tents and a crowd of people enjoying the event in the evening.
Two young men smiling close together while holding plastic cups of beer, with a dimly lit background and foliage.
A young man in a white outfit and brown shoes stands on a city street at night, joyfully raising his arms while holding a drink, with modern buildings and bike racks in the background.
A group of young men are gathered in a convenience store, looking down intently at something, with one of them appearing surprised or excited.
The boys made it to the Syd for Solen show and made some friends

Noma

We had the good fortune to score a last-minute lunch reservation at the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Noma.

Noma

The Three-Hour Tour

Unkle Sean is great for trips. He plans culturally interesting itineraries and always has innovative ideas for excursions. He suggested a picturesque boat tour around the waterways of Copenhagen. I agreed once again that this was a brilliant idea. We had to take two boats due to timing. As we watched from afar, it appeared that Sean was tardy for the launch. We saw him running across the dock to the boat. I had never seen Sean run before. Realize we have been friends for 25 years, and not in a single instance have I ever seen him run. I grabbed Carter and told him to watch as history was in the making.

Three men sitting together on a boat, smiling for the camera, with a modern building and blue sky in the background.
Apparently Sean made the boat in time.
A group selfie featuring three men sitting together, with one wearing sunglasses and a blue Italian soccer jersey, against an urban backdrop.
View of the Copenhagen Opera House from the water, with a boat in the foreground and a clear blue sky with scattered clouds.
The contemporary Copenhagen Opera House with glass and mirrored facade reflecting the cityscape, viewed from the water.
A scenic view of modern buildings along the waterfront in Copenhagen, with clear blue skies and people enjoying the area.
Two young men enjoying drinks on a boat with a sunny backdrop and water in Copenhagen.
Two young men smiling while enjoying drinks on a boat, with a scenic water and sky background.
Two young men smiling and enjoying drinks while sitting on a boat with a scenic water background, one wearing sunglasses and a floral shirt, the other in a sports jersey and bucket hat.
Group of friends on a boat in Copenhagen, enjoying drinks and the scenic waterfront view.
A view from a boat navigating the waters of Copenhagen, showcasing the vibrant waterfront with people enjoying the sun, sailboats, modern buildings, and a clear blue sky.
A picturesque view of a marina in Copenhagen, featuring various boats docked along the water, with clear skies and vintage buildings in the background.
A modern building with a reflective facade situated on the waterfront in Copenhagen, under a clear blue sky.
A scenic view of the waterfront in Copenhagen, showcasing modern architecture with glass buildings reflecting the blue sky, and a bridge crossing over the calm water.
A scenic view of a calm canal in Copenhagen, featuring boats moored along the water's edge, contrasting modern buildings and colorful brick structures under a clear blue sky.
View of Christiansborg Palace in Copenhagen with a clear blue sky.
A vibrant waterfront view of a restaurant with a red exterior and yellow umbrellas, alongside a scenic canal, under a clear blue sky.
Group of friends enjoying a scenic boat ride on a body of water during sunset.
A view of a harbor with a warship docked, featuring a bright blue sky and some clouds. In the foreground, yellow buoys are floating in the water.
Scenic view of a sunset over the water in Copenhagen, with buildings and boats silhouetted against the golden sky.
A young person wearing a blue Italy jersey and sunglasses stands by a marina at sunset, holding drinks while posing for a photo.
A person tilting their head back, drinking from a plastic cup, with a sunset in the background.
A picturesque street in Copenhagen during sunset, featuring colorful buildings, outdoor seating at cafes, and people socializing. A sign advertising burgers is visible in the foreground.
A couple walking hand-in-hand along a cobblestone street in Copenhagen's Nyhavn area, with colorful buildings and sunset in the background.
A picturesque scene of a waterfront promenade in Copenhagen showcasing colorful buildings under a dramatic sunset, with people enjoying the outdoor atmosphere.
A picturesque view of a bustling street in Copenhagen's Nyhavn area during sunset, featuring colorful buildings, outdoor seating, and lamp posts.
A selfie of two individuals in a vibrant waterfront area, with colorful buildings in the background and people enjoying the evening sunlight.
Two men standing on a railing with drinks, silhouetted against a vibrant sunset.
TheHad Dad and Rhone – the sky was on fire!
A selfie of a person wearing sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat, standing in a restaurant setting, with a female staff member in a white shirt and black apron visible in the background.
A picturesque view of Nyhavn in Copenhagen at sunset, featuring colorful buildings, bustling crowds, outdoor cafes, and bicycles lined along the cobblestone walkway.
A vibrant street scene in Copenhagen's Nyhavn area, featuring colorful buildings, outdoor dining, and a sunset sky, with people leisurely walking along the waterfront.
A street view in Copenhagen at sunset, showcasing a vintage street lamp amidst charming buildings and outdoor seating areas filled with diners.
A picturesque sunset over a cobblestone street lined with colorful buildings and outdoor cafes, bustling with pedestrians in Copenhagen.
A man stands in the foreground wearing a white sweater, looking towards the camera. In the background, a vibrant sunset illuminates a bustling street filled with people and colorful buildings.
Mr. GQ in in the house.
A vibrant view of the iconic Nyhavn area in Copenhagen, featuring colorful historical buildings, a lively atmosphere, and rainbow flags hanging across the street.

Dinner would be at Goldfinch, a lovely Chinese Restaurant located on the Kongens Nytorv Square across from the famous D’Angleterre Hotel.

Cocktail menu page showcasing various drink options including Dirty Highball, Crystal Clear, Lychee Martini, Juicy-Ous Monkey, and Daring Peach, with descriptions and prices.
Cover of the menu from Goldfinch restaurant, featuring the word 'goldfinch' in stylized red lettering and a small illustration of a bird.
A teal menu cover with the word 'goldfinch' embossed in gold, sitting on a dark tabletop next to a water glass.
Three young men smiling and posing together in a restaurant, sitting at a table with drinks and a decorative backdrop.
A close-up photo of two men taking a selfie at a restaurant, with one man smiling and the other looking serious.

Rhone went missing under mysterious circumstances at dinner. He arrived that day and let his phone die, so I was unable to track him. A bit worried about a child (6’4″ 230 lbs) missing, I sent the boys on a recon mission to find him. Carter issued a BOLO to the police and anxiously searched and awaited any news of a Rhone sighting.

Two young men posing for a photo outdoors, one wearing a blue Italy jersey and sunglasses, the other in a light-colored shirt. They appear relaxed and cheerful.
A young man looking stressed while sitting at a table with a smartphone in front of him. He has a concerned expression, with one hand on his forehead and a can of sparkling water beside him. His shirt has a noticeable stain.
Carter diligently manned the search for Rhone.

Sean and I were distraught and did the only reasonable thing one would do in this situation. We returned to Balthazar, a nearby Champagne bar, and did the only civilized thing to do in this predicament – we ordered a bottle of bubbly and some caviar as we pondered our next move in this terribly disquieting situation.

A table setting featuring a glass of champagne, a plate of small pancakes, deviled eggs, and a bowl of assorted nuts, with a luxurious ambiance.

After profound enlightenment and long contemplation, and after concluding the bottle, I suggested we return to the scene of the crime and search for Rhone in the park. He was soon found, largely unscathed, within 5 minutes. Old age and treachery will always win over youth and skill.

Exterior view of Hotel d'Angleterre in Copenhagen, beautifully illuminated at night with flags displayed on the roof.
Found Rhone

Stuttgart

A person wearing headphones walks towards the entrance of a small airplane on the tarmac, with a clear blue sky in the background.
A young person carrying multiple bags in a hotel lobby, looking surprised or excited, with stylish interior architecture in the background.
Proof of life

We caught an early flight to Stuttgart, our next stop, the cathedral of precision for German car engineering (Carter would add in Munich for the storied Bavarian manufacturer – BMW – Bavarian Motor Works). Stuttgart is less a city and more a pilgrimage route for four-wheeled German-engineered machines. However, we quickly discovered that it was a less-than-ideal place to visit – very industrial, gritty, and under a continuous effort of reconstruction. It was the least favorite city on the tour, let alone all of Europe. Our hotel was located on a street under construction for at least 500 meters, and there was nothing walkable – terrible, just terrible. Plus, it was about 100 degrees. I consulted with Jim and the group and cut our two-day stay short to swap a day in Stuttgart for an extra day in Luxembourg. Jim agreed, and according to his football math, we scored the two-point conversion for the go-ahead score.

First Stop – Porsche Museum

A sculpture featuring several cars balanced on tall white supports, set against a clear blue sky, near a street with traffic signs and parked cars.
View of the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart, featuring a striking sculpture of cars mounted on an artistic structure, with modern architecture in the background and pedestrians walking by.
A sculpture featuring three white cars mounted on tall, angled pillars against a clear blue sky, showcasing modern art and automotive design.
A view of a modern urban area featuring gray buildings, a pedestrian bridge, and people walking, set against a clear blue sky.
The factory where they paint all 911 chassis
An aerial view of four high-end cars parked in a lot, their reflections distorted on a diamond-patterned glass surface.
A classic red Porsche 911 stands in a well-lit workshop, showcasing its sleek design and shiny chrome details.
A red Porsche 911 (referred to as 901) displayed in a museum, showcasing its classic design. A man is seen speaking nearby.

The Porsche 901 is a legend. That’s because it was the forerunner of the 911. Porsche unveiled a production-ready vehicle, but within just a few weeks, the coupé had to be renamed as a result of a trademark dispute with Peugeot, which owned the trademark on any car designation with a X0X, where the zero is in the middle. From then on, it was known as the 911. All of the customer vehicles produced up to that point were manufactured as 901 vehicles, but sold as 911 vehicles. This was the original, first restored 911.

A collage of vintage Porsche racing posters showcasing various events such as the Fuji 6 Hours, European Hillclimb Championship, and Grand Prix de France, highlighting iconic cars and race achievements.
A silver Porsche 911 Turbo S showcased in a museum setting, highlighting its sleek design and modern features.
Reflection of people and a red car on a modern, reflective building structure with unique angles and shapes.
A classic Porsche race car displayed in a museum, featuring a striking blue and red paint scheme with the number 27 prominently featured on its side.
A classic white Porsche 917 sports car displayed in a museum, featuring a distinctive rear wing and a sleek design. The car is positioned on a black surface, with visitors observing and taking photos in the background.
A pink Porsche 917 race car on display in a museum, with a crowd of visitors admiring it.
The famous pig
A silver Porsche Carrera GT displayed in a museum, showcasing its sleek design and luxurious interior.
Side view of a Porsche Carrera GT with the car door opened, showcasing its sleek interior and design.
A silver Porsche 959 sports car displayed in a museum, showcasing its sleek design and distinctive features.
Interior view of a racing car, showcasing the steering wheel, dashboard controls, and racing seat.
A printed document titled 'Nobody's perfect.' featuring the 1983 Le Mans results with the top ten placements for Porsche and Sauber/BMW.
Rear view of a Porsche GT3 R hybrid car on display, showcasing its vibrant orange and white design, with a large rear wing and Michelin branding, surrounded by visitors in a modern exhibition space.
Close-up of a person's hands holding a colorful racing steering wheel featuring various buttons and dials, showcasing advanced controls for a high-performance vehicle.
Close-up of a classic car's door featuring the Martini International Club logo with a safety belt design.
Rear view of a Porsche 911 race car with a distinctive Martini racing livery, showcasing its prominent rear spoiler and racing decals.

Mercedes Museum

The Mercedes-Benz Museum, featuring modern architecture with a metallic facade and large glass windows, surrounded by greenery and a clear blue sky.
My Cathedral
A classic Mercedes-Benz car with a sleek design and a white exterior, featuring distinctive gullwing doors. The red interior contrasts with the exterior. In the background, a crowd of people is admiring the car and exploring the exhibit.
A classic Mercedes-Benz car displayed in a museum, with a silver racing car sitting on top of a blue vintage Mercedes truck.
A white Mercedes-Benz G-Class vehicle with a transparent enclosure on display at a car museum, surrounded by visitors taking photos.
The Pope Mobile
A classic Mercedes-Benz 300SL sports car on display in a modern museum setting, featuring its iconic gullwing doors opened, with visitors admiring the vehicle.
A collection of various race cars displayed in a modern museum setting, showcasing sophisticated automotive engineering and design.
A view inside a modern car museum showcasing three vehicles: a sleek silver car with a visible interior, a futuristic silver sports car with racing stripes, and a yellow sports car on a raised platform. The surrounding architecture features a spiraling staircase, glossy flooring, and people observing the exhibits.
Aerial view of a modern car exhibition featuring various vintage and contemporary racing cars, including sleek sports models displayed on a circular platform with informative displays around.
A detailed cutaway view of a car transmission, showing internal gears, components, and mechanisms displayed on a white pedestal in a modern exhibition space.
A collection of vintage silver Mercedes racing cars displayed in a modern museum setting, featuring various models including those numbered 36, 122, and 178, with visitors admiring the exhibits.
Interior view of a museum showcasing a silver concept car on display, with visitors observing the exhibit.
Top view of a sleek Formula 1 racing car on a patterned floor featuring pit crew graphics.
A 2001 Mercedes-Benz race truck engine displayed on a pedestal, featuring a detailed view of its intricate components and design.

Luxembourg

With Stuttgart finally behind us, we made our way to the tax haven of Luxembourg. This was a special stop as Rhone is a citizen of Luxembourg, a true Luxembourger. Thank god we came early. The town is lovely, and our hotel, a restored series of townhouses centered in the pedestrian square, was a respite from German hospitality.

Image of a highway scene showing a mix of vehicles including cars and trucks on a well-maintained road surrounded by green foliage.

Back on the road again…

A view of cars driving inside a tunnel with bright lights illuminating the walls and traffic signals visible ahead.
A tall statue on a pedestal located between two buildings, with bright blue sky in the background.
A sculpture of a lion on top of a column, surrounded by various figures, located in a plaza with modern buildings in the background.
A vibrant street view in Luxembourg with colorful buildings on either side and people walking along the pathway under a clear blue sky.
View of the sky between buildings, with modern glass railings and traditional architecture.
A view of the sky between two buildings, showcasing balconies with greenery and striped awnings.
View upwards through a courtyard with buildings on either side and a blue sky above.
View of building facades captured from below a glass ceiling, showcasing the architecture of upper floors and balconies under a clear blue sky.
Two windows in a light-colored wall, showcasing architectural details and reflections of the surroundings.
A view through a glass window showcasing a charming outdoor dining area with tables set for guests among green plants and surrounding architecture.
A cozy outdoor dining area with white tables and chairs under large umbrellas, surrounded by potted plants and a charming building backdrop.
View of rooftops in a picturesque town under a clear blue sky.
Interior view of a passageway with wooden beams and a high ceiling, showcasing a modern and rustic aesthetic.
Cozy hotel room with a sloped ceiling featuring wooden beams, a king-sized bed with decorative pillows, and two red upholstered armchairs by a small table.
View of a wooden ceiling with exposed beams and a soft curtain draping below.
A luxurious bathroom featuring marble walls and a glass-enclosed shower, with a modern bathtub, a sink with elegant fixtures, and neatly arranged towels.
A view of a building facade featuring Café de Paris signage, surrounded by green trees, showcasing classical architecture in a European city.
Our blessed hotel
Two men enjoying drinks on a terrace with a view of a cityscape and blue sky.
A young man sitting at an outdoor café table with drinks, surrounded by lush greenery and quaint European architecture in the background.
Two young men sitting at a table outside a cafe, with one gazing thoughtfully and the other wearing sunglasses. The table features a small vase with greenery and a glass of beverage.
A young man holds two different types of snacks in each hand, sitting at a table with an empty dish and drink in front of him, smiling at the camera.
A young man holding a bottle of wine above his head, looking upward with an expressive face, while another young man sits nearby, smiling. The table is set with bread and drinks, and there are stylish dining surroundings.
Two young men relaxing on a sofa under an umbrella, with one wearing sunglasses and the other casually dressed. A waiter in the background is serving drinks.
Interior view of a stylish restaurant featuring modern decor with gold accents, plaid chairs, and a chef working in the kitchen in the background.
The elegantly embossed sign of La Cristallerie restaurant, reading 'Le Place D'Armes' on a textured grey background.
A single fried ball of seafood served on a small white dish with a sprinkle of green seasoning on one side.
A beautifully plated dish featuring slices of dark pâté garnished with fresh greens, orange segments, and a drizzle of green sauce, showcasing an elegant presentation.
A plated gourmet dish featuring a perfectly cooked piece of beef on a bed of green puree, garnished with assorted vegetables and sauce drizzles.
Two young men sitting at a dining table, sharing a lighthearted moment during dinner. One is wearing a Lakers jersey and the other is in a white shirt. The table is set with glasses of red wine and plates of food, including slices of bread.
Two men sharing a lighthearted moment at a dining table, with plates and glasses of wine in front of them.

Koln aka Cologne

Due to a miscommunication and a lost in translation exchange between German and English while changing the date of our drive on the famous Nürburgring race track, we found ourselves with eight hours of free time in Germany. The famed Nürburgring track is in the middle of nowhere, Germany. We discussed our options and felt a side trip to Cologne for lunch would be a good use of time and a cultural experience. We had a tight window to drive to the city, have lunch, and return for our laps on the most famous track of them all.

A road sign indicating a highway entrance, featuring a blue background with a white graphic of two lanes converging.
The Autobahn – Wir fahr’n, fahr’n, fahr’n auf der Autobahn

Queue the Kraftwerk, we were driving on the Autobahn. Now, as I learned the hard way, the Autobahn does indeed have sections with speed limits. I was most successful at finding them.

A formal document addressed to Mark Hadland regarding a traffic violation and fine in Trier, Germany, dated August 5, 2024.
Busted

Jim and I opted for a quick tour of the famous Cologne Cathedral. Construction started in 1248 and was finally completed according to its original plans in 1880. The towers, with their two massive spires, give the cathedral the most prominent façade of any church in the world.

Facade of St. Vitus Cathedral, showcasing intricate Gothic architecture with spires and detailed carvings.
View of the St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague, showcasing its intricate Gothic architecture and towering spires under a blue sky.
Interior view of a grand cathedral with tall vaulted ceilings, intricate stonework, and stained glass windows, filled with natural light.
Close-up view of a grand Gothic cathedral with intricate architectural details and scaffolding against a blue sky.
Window display of a Louis Vuitton store featuring a colorful flamingo design with the text 'PARIS'.
Crowd of people walking in a plaza with a colorful circular design on the ground featuring heart-shaped flags from various countries, with one person sitting in the center.
A close-up of an ornate door knocker shaped like a lion's head, featuring intricate floral carvings in the background.
View of the St. Vitus Cathedral with its intricate gothic architecture, showcasing spires and detailed stonework against a blue sky.
Three young men posing in front of the Cologne Cathedral and Hohenzollern Bridge, with a cloudy sky in the background.
View of the iconic Cologne Cathedral and the Hohenzollern Bridge spanning the Rhine River against a cloudy sky.
Two young men pose for a photo with the Cologne Cathedral in the background, showcasing the iconic gothic architecture.
A young man stands near the riverbank in Cologne, Germany, with the Cologne Cathedral and a bridge visible in the background under a cloudy sky.

With our obligatory magnet purchase complete and the end of a short, unmemorable lunch, we resumed our trip to the track.

A view of a highway with a blue sky and fluffy clouds, showing a traffic sign indicating a distance of 480.5 kilometers, with a car's side mirror reflecting a person taking a photo.
A close-up view of a car's side mirror reflecting the sky and a nearby road sign with a blue background and an 'A' symbol on a sunny day with scattered clouds.
Map view of the Nürburgring racetrack in Germany, showing track layout and surrounding roads.
Screenshot

Nürburgring

Signage of the Nürburgring racetrack, featuring the name 'nürburgring' in bold red letters against a metallic background.
Every lap tells a story; some are thrillers, some are tragedies, and all are expensive.
An informational sign displaying directions and points of interest around the Nürburgring racetrack in Germany, featuring various attractions like the Ring Kartbahn, Info Center, BMW M Power Tribune, and Dorint Hotel.
Facade of the AMG building featuring a prominent illuminated logo, with visible glass doors and reflections of cars inside.
Map of the Nürburgring racetrack showing routes, spectator areas, and nearby towns.

Our highly anticipated laps around the most famous race track in the world quickly spiraled into a complete clusterfuck. What I thought would be an hour of coaching, driving, car, and track review ended up being two random German instructors meeting us at the crowded entrance to the track, which, by the way, is a public road open to any driver paying the daily fee. We were instructed to jump in the cars and drive. No instruction, random people, and vehicles from every walk of life were moving with us. In general, I had no objection, but I was expecting a very different experience. Realize this is the track that all manufacturers in the world use to time their cars for the fastest lap. We were not officially timed, but we were driving a 911 GT3RS, one of the world’s fastest cars. Current record lap times are just over seven minutes. I clocked in between 11 and 12 minutes for my laps. Regardless, it was a total blast to drive these fast cars on this storied track.

A sleek grey sports car with black wheels and a large rear spoiler, parked in a busy automotive gathering. The car features a blue sticker on its side that reads 'BIG GARAGE'.
Group of people walking towards a grey Porsche GT4 with blue racing stripes in a parking area surrounded by trees.
Group of car enthusiasts discussing next steps by a yellow sports car in a parking lot.
A hand holding a Porsche car key in front of a gray Porsche with blue racing stripes parked in a lot.
Front view of a gray Porsche 718 Cayman GT4 with blue racing stripes parked in a garage surrounded by other cars.
A Porsche sports car with blue racing stripes parked amid a gathering of car enthusiasts, surrounded by various vehicles and a scenic backdrop.
Group of friends posing together near two cars, one yellow and one blue, in a parking area surrounded by greenery and clouds.
A group of six people standing beside two luxury sports cars in a parking lot, with lush greenery in the background.
A panoramic view of a parking area near a racetrack featuring various cars, including sports cars, sedan and hatchback models. People are gathered in groups, engaged in conversation, with a backdrop of cloudy skies and green hills.
A group of people gathered around luxury sports cars, including a yellow and a grey vehicle, at an outdoor car meet. The background shows greenery and a cloudy sky.

With our laps at the track complete, we returned to Luxembourg for dinner and our final night in the town.

View of a square in Luxembourg City at sunset, featuring a statue and buildings with colorful facades under a cloudy sky.
A sunset view of a square in Luxembourg featuring a statue, surrounded by historical buildings and trees. A small group of people can be seen gathering near the statue.
A picturesque street scene in Luxembourg with historic buildings on either side, colorful flags hanging, and a softly glowing sunset sky in the background.
A narrow cobblestone alley with tall buildings on either side, illuminated by soft lighting in the evening sky.

Carter found a Michelin-recommended restaurant, Clairfountaine, for dinner. Some folks were tired from a very long day of driving, so we were at a small table. The food and service were impeccable. We even learned the difference between Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet.

Home
An elegant appetizer presentation at a Michelin-starred restaurant, featuring two small bites on one side and two shot glasses of liquid on the other, all displayed on a metallic serving tray.
A modern metal sculpture of angular shapes framed by a vivid red wall.
A plated dish featuring tender chicken breast on a creamy sauce with herbs and garnish.
A beautifully plated dessert featuring chocolate mousse, a slice of fresh fig, edible flowers, and decorative fruit coulis on an artistic plate.
A plate featuring two elegant, round appetizers with a golden crust, garnished with a small piece of red pepper on top, served on a textured black mat.
A decorative golden starburst sculpture casting intricate shadows on a wooden surface.
A close-up of a fried ball-shaped appetizer garnished with a slice of lemon and a basil leaf, presented on a metal stand.
Two drinks garnished with herbs served in clear glasses on a metallic tray, with a blurred background of a table setting.
A close-up of a small decorative food item in a miniature cup, topped with a touch of seasoning and a purple flower petal.
A beautifully presented gourmet dish featuring slices of meat roll garnished with vibrant greens, colorful sauces, and decorative edible flowers, all artfully arranged on a dark slate plate.

Champagne

Our next destination after Luxembourg was Reims in the Champagne region of France. It was one of our longest driving segments, and we happily took our pair of BMW wagons on the open roads of the Autoroute de France.

A person lounging with feet up on a balcony railing, holding a glass of wine in one hand and a cigar in the other, with the Reims Cathedral in the background under a clear blue sky.
Two young men toast with glasses of champagne in front of a magnificent Gothic cathedral.
Two young men standing on a balcony, each holding a drink. One has a glass of champagne and the other a cocktail. They are enjoying a scenic view with a grand cathedral in the background, showcasing beautiful architectural details under a clear blue sky.
Close-up view of the Reims Cathedral, showcasing its intricate Gothic architecture and detailed sculptural elements under a blue sky.
Group of friends relaxing on a rooftop terrace, enjoying drinks while overlooking a cityscape with a church tower in the background.
A man enjoys a drink while admiring the intricate facade of the Reims Cathedral against a clear blue sky.

After some thoughtful and insightful contemplation of the majesty of the history and architecture before us, it was time to do the only reasonable thing before us – dine!

A historic square in Reims, France, featuring a prominent statue surrounded by classic buildings and a clear blue sky.

Dinner for the evening was at Millenaire, a seafood-focused restaurant that was highly recommended. The food was decent and the whole experience a bit weird. Our waiter resembled a cartoon character straight from Tintin, and we were confused when Jim’s martini was made only with Martini vermouth. At least the meal was beautiful and good.

A beautifully presented dish resembling a sea urchin shell, topped with thin slices of cucumber on a small tartlet.
Close-up of a leather menu cover embossed with the word 'Millénaire'.
A beautifully presented dish featuring a creamy mixture topped with edible flowers, fresh herbs, and nuts, served in a small round container on a glass plate.
Three colorful butter balls on a white plate: green herb butter, yellow butter, and a speckled brown butter.
A gourmet dish featuring a translucent piece of delicately cooked meat or seafood surrounded by a flavorful broth with bubbles, garnished with fresh herbs.
A beautifully plated seafood dish featuring a lobster tail and a lobster salad topped with edible flowers, served with a green sauce on a textured blue plate.
A beautifully plated dish featuring a round piece of seafood garnished with spices, accompanied by colorful edible flowers and vegetables.
A waiter in formal attire holds a large black bottle labeled 'Millenaire' in a restaurant setting.
A beautifully plated dish featuring poached fish, surrounded by colorful sauces and garnishes, showcased on a minimalist white plate.
A small white bowl containing a creamy green soup garnished with five bright red dots, placed on a marble countertop.
A gourmet dish featuring a round, golden-brown item topped with herbs and nuts, served with vibrant orange sauce and green leaves on a textured white plate.
A beautifully presented dessert featuring a delicate white mousse topped with fresh strawberries, set in a clear glass bowl with a vibrant strawberry sauce and a decorative sugar lattice garnish.
Gourmet dish presented on decorative moss with edible flowers, featuring crispy triangular wafers drizzled with a green sauce and garnished with fresh herbs.
A decorative white marble plate featuring three trilateral food items garnished with green powder, a small dark garnish, and a sprig of lavender, adding an elegant touch.
Three colorful miniature tacos filled with vibrant orange mango and topped with purple edible flowers, presented on a textured stone plate.

La Cathédrale de Reims

A view of the Reims Cathedral with its ornate Gothic architecture under a clear blue sky.
Reims Cathedral

Reims is home to one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in France, rivaling Notre Dame. Completed in 1275, it was the traditional location for the coronation of the Kings of France.

A selfie of two men in front of the Reims Cathedral, showcasing its intricate Gothic architecture.

I arranged a tour of the Cathedral, where we were allowed to climb the 500+ steps up a narrow spiral stone staircase to the bell tower and upper roof, with vaulted ceilings and ramparts at the top.

View of the intricate vaulted ceiling and pillars inside a Gothic cathedral, featuring stone arches and large stained glass windows.
Interior view of a grand cathedral featuring tall, intricately designed arches and stained glass windows.
Interior view of a Gothic cathedral highlighting the intricate stained glass windows and detailed stone carvings on the walls.
Interior view of Mont Saint-Michel, showcasing the intricate wooden beams and arched design of the structure.
Interior view of a Gothic cathedral looking up at the vaulted ceiling and windows, capturing intricate architectural details and stone carvings.
A close-up view of a stone statue of a figure, likely a saint or historical figure, atop a tall gothic structure, set against a cloudy sky.
Interior view of a vaulted wooden structure with intricate beams and lighting, showcasing architectural design.
Amazing concrete rib vaults. We were able to walk across the entire length of the span.
Close-up of decorative gargoyle statues on the upper wall of a cathedral, under a clear blue sky.
Close-up view of a pointed steeple with ornate details against a partly cloudy sky.
View from the roof of La Cathédrale de Reims showcasing intricate gothic architecture and spires against a cloudy sky.
A weathered stone statue of a crowned king, depicted with a long beard and regal attire, set against an ancient wall.
A view looking up at the interior of a tall cathedral, featuring intricate architectural details and a stone sculpture of a bearded figure holding a finger to its lips, symbolizing silence.
A close-up view of ornate architectural details and sloped roofs, showcasing intricate designs and gold accents against a cloudy sky.
A panoramic view of a cityscape featuring a mix of traditional and modern buildings under a partly cloudy sky.

Epernay

A picturesque view of lush vineyards with neatly aligned rows under a blue sky with fluffy clouds, showcasing the scenic landscape of the Champagne region in France.

We traveled to Epernay, the true heart of the Champagne. I arranged a private tour of the caves and tasting flights. There are miles of caves carved into the chalk-like earth, housing hundreds of millions of dollars’ worth of Champagne, the magical beverage of kings. This was only one Champagne house. The ground is literally a buried treasure.

Street sign for 'Avenue de Champagne' in Epernay, France, featuring a blue background with white text.
A French mansion with ornate architecture, featuring balconies and window shutters, surrounded by a gated entrance and greenery, under a blue sky with clouds.
A beautifully landscaped courtyard featuring a floral design, flanked by elegant buildings under a bright blue sky with fluffy clouds.
A decorative artwork featuring white floral designs and a bird on a golden background.
Statue of Dom Perignon, a key figure in Champagne production, located outside the Moët & Chandon house in France.
An old wooden wine barrel with a decorative crest and inscription, displayed in a well-lit cellar, along with a sign detailing its historical significance.
Two individuals sitting on a couch in a luxurious setting with golden wall art and a decorative plant in front.
Dimly lit underground cellar with brick arches and rows of wine bottles stacked against the walls.
Bottles of Champagne labeled with the name 'Mit.' stacked in a storage area, showing signs of dust and residue.
Stained glass window depicting various scenes and figures, illuminated by light, with a staircase leading downwards.
Dimly lit underground cellar corridor lined with stone walls and illuminated by soft lighting, showcasing wine racks.
A dimly lit cellar showcasing neatly stacked wine bottles, with a wooden sign displaying '92M393 P046 0098' in bright yellow lettering.
A view of dusty champagne bottles stacked on wooden racks in a dark cellar, with a chalkboard label indicating storage details.
A dimly lit wine cellar showcasing rows of dusty champagne bottles stored horizontally in wooden racks, with a warm golden glow illuminating the curved brick ceiling.
An underground Champagne cellar with walls lined with dark bottles. A person walks through the tunnel, illuminated by soft yellow lights, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.
Sign for Caves Cousin indicating galleries and area size, in French.
A wooden rack holding two wine bottles, positioned in holes, illuminated with warm lighting, suggesting a cellar or wine storage environment.
An illuminated underground wine cellar with a smooth stone pathway lined with small white pebbles, leading towards an arched opening in the distance.
A series of illuminated, brick-walled wine cellars with arched ceilings and rows of wine bottles along the walls.
A wide brick archway leading to a tunnel illuminated by warm yellow lights, with a cobblestone path and textured stone walls.
Bottles of champagne stacked in a dimly lit cellar, with a chalkboard label indicating their details.
A close-up view of champagne bottles stacked in a dark cellar, with a chalkboard label displaying 'DOM77 0025 134'.
A black wine cooler with a bottle of champagne and two corks on a black napkin beside it, against a rustic brick wall.

After a lovely tour of the grottoesque caverns storing copious amounts of aged Champagne, we embarked on the next stage of this nearly spiritual journey to appreciate the magic and alchemy of the union of grape juice and yeast. It took blessedly long to get to this stage.

A woman in a black blazer stands at a table in a wine cellar, speaking to a group with glasses of champagne in hand. The walls are made of exposed bricks, creating a warm atmosphere.
A hand holding a bottle of Dom Pérignon vintage 2006 Champagne, with an empty glass and other glasses in the background, set on a countertop with pink lighting.
Five friends enjoying champagne in a stylish, dimly lit wine cellar with a pink hue.
A group of four people is gathered inside a wine cellar with a pink-tinted light. They are standing around a long table with empty glasses and a minimalistic decor, featuring brick walls and an arched ceiling.
A person holding a bottle of Dom Perignon champagne, standing in a dimly lit cellar with brick walls and blue lighting.
Two men smiling inside a wine cellar, with one holding a bottle of champagne. The setting has a blue-toned ambiance and exposed brick walls.

This is P2. The minimum aging for a standard Dom Pérignon vintage is eight years, but this varies for its “Plénitude” releases. The P2 (Plénitude 2) vintage is aged for a minimum of 15 years, and the P3 (Plénitude 3) is aged for a minimum of 25 years. 

Two bottles of Dom Perignon Champagne from different vintages (2015 and 2006) alongside elegant champagne glasses on a table with ambient purple lighting in a brick cellar.
A close-up image of a bottle of Dom Pérignon vintage 2015 Champagne, featuring the label prominently displayed.
A bottle of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2006 Champagne, showcasing its elegant label and condensation on the glass, indicating it is chilled.
Two young men celebrating in a dimly lit wine cellar, each holding a bottle of champagne and a glass, with one making a playful gesture.
A young man in a striped shirt holding two bottles of champagne in a softly lit cellar with pink hues.
Two young men celebrating in a dimly lit wine cellar, each holding a glass of sparkling wine. The ambiance is warm with pink hues, and a bottle of champagne sits on a table in front of them.
Two men celebrating with champagne in a dimly lit cellar, with a purple hue illuminating the walls.
Two young men holding champagne corks up to their eyes, smiling, with a brick wall background.
A beautifully illuminated wine cellar featuring a long stone table set for a tasting, complete with wine bottles and elegant glasses on it.
An interior view of a dimly lit tunnel with purple lighting, showcasing a long, minimalist table set with glasses.
A young man playfully poses next to a large bottle of Moët & Chandon champagne, showcasing the brand's iconic label and packaging inside an upscale setting.
Display of Dom Pérignon P2 champagne bottle in a stylish presentation area.
A display of different sizes of Moët & Chandon champagne bottles arranged in a row on a shelf, with a soft, illuminated background featuring the brand name.
Front view of the ornate entrance to a museum, featuring elaborate architecture and decorative iron gates against a blue sky.

And off to Perrier Jouet for more tasting. They are famous for their Belle Epoque Flower Bottle.

Reflection of a man wearing a pink shirt in the window of the Perrier-Jouët Champagne boutique, showcasing its logo and name.
A close-up of a bottle of Perrier-Jouët Champagne, labelled 'Brut' and 'Belle Epoque 2015', featuring intricate floral designs on a green glass bottle.
A bottle of Perrier-Jouët Champagne Blason Rosé on a table, with condensation on the bottle, sitting on a white napkin.
A selfie of two men wearing sunglasses, smiling in front of a beautiful historical building with gardens and blue skies.

After we toured the Champagne houses in Epernay, we returned to Reims for our final evening. Our hotel was situated across the courtyard from the Cathedral, and our patio was an ideal place for dinner. After our latest voyage into haute cuisine, we all wished we had dined here again.

A beautifully presented plate featuring a slice of meat topped with a green leaf, served in a creamy sauce with decorative drizzles of green and brown sauces around the edge.
Close-up of a napkin featuring the logo of 'la grande Georgette' with an illustration of a car, placed on a red table with the restaurant name visible.
A close-up view of a beautifully plated dish featuring thinly sliced orange and green garnishes in a rustic bowl.
A side view of the Reims Cathedral showcasing its intricate Gothic architecture and twin towers against a blue sky.
A small, elegantly presented dish containing a creamy sauce with thin slices of some kind of garnish, accompanied by small nut-like pieces, set on a textured plate.
Reflection of a historic church facade viewed through a glass doorway with greenery and outdoor seating visible in the foreground.
A bowl of delicately arranged seafood served with broth and edible flowers, showcasing a gourmet dining experience.
Selfie of two men in front of the Reims Cathedral, showcasing intricate Gothic architecture in the background.
A beautifully plated dish featuring a creamy soup topped with edible flower petals and a frothy texture, served in a white bowl.

After dinner, we met a group of young Belgian men who invited us to a club in their chauffeured car. They were rather friendly fellows, generous with magnums of Veuve Cliquot, and introduced us to all sorts of fun at the club.

A person in a white shirt is dancing or posing on the floor of a dimly lit bar, with red lights casting an ambient glow.
A person wearing a white shirt and light blue jeans walks quickly in a bar with wooden decor and dim lighting.
Group of friends dancing in a lively bar setting, with colorful lights and a vibrant atmosphere.
A group of young men laughing and having fun at a bar, with one person being playfully held upside-down.

After an evening of fun and libations with the Belgians, it was time to move on to our next destination. We had another long driving day ahead of us.

Saint Malo

After hours of driving with Jim, we passed Paris, en route to Saint-Malo. Near Le Mans, I channeled my inner race car driver and made a second, unplanned donation to France’s K-12 education system, all while making new friends.

A blue sports car with 'Gendarmerie' written on the side, parked on an asphalt road with fields in the background.
A blue sports car with 'GENDARMERIE' written on the side, indicating it belongs to the French police. The car features black wheels with red brake calipers, and the interior is visible through the open door.
A man stands with two police officers beside a police car on a road with a cloudy sky in the background.

I was driving a German car with German plates, and the Police man immediately admonished me for not respecting France’s laws. He then inquired if I was German, to which I replied, ‘Nein.’ He then asked if I was French, and in my best French accent, I replied, ‘Non.’ Confused, he then asked me what I was. I replied American. He then presented me with a breathalyzer test and asked if I had been drinking. Jim chimed in and replied ‘Not yet. I took the test and passed, of course, and he handed me the plastic mouthpiece from the device. I asked him if I should piss in it. Not amused, his demeanor and visage changed positively when I asked him what that strange blue car was that caught up with me. He replied, ‘It’s a French supercar, Alpine,’ to which I replied, ‘I did not know the French made a supercar.’ I asked to see their car and received a full tour of the French excellence in supercar automotive engineering.

We arrived in Saint-Malo, the terminus of the music-planned trip, where Air was playing at the Route du Rocher. It was raining, so I opted to have dinner in town and skip the show. We stayed at the beautiful Le Grand Hotel Des Thermes, a seaside resort and spa set on the beach.

A distant view of a small island surrounded by calm ocean waters under a cloudy sky.
View from a balcony overlooking the beach, featuring a stretch of sandy shore lined with people walking, framed by a scenic sky and displaying sleek architectural details of the building.
A view of the ocean with distant islands visible under cloudy skies.
A view of a beach with sandy shores, gentle waves, and a cloudy sky. Small figures are seen walking along the beach, with distant islands visible on the horizon.

We settled into town for the evening to explore the walled city and enjoy some of the local cuisine. We sampled some local mussels and found a restaurant with a very gregarious proprietor.

A group of five friends enjoying dinner at a restaurant, sitting around a table with food and wine. They appear to be in a lively atmosphere with street scenes visible through the window.
Jim was ecstatic when I filled his wine glass to the rim with a perfect meniscus.
A group of six friends enjoying dinner at a restaurant table, smiling and posing for a selfie with glasses of wine on the table, in a vibrant urban setting at night.
Two friends smiling and making funny faces for a selfie, standing close together in front of a restaurant window with people inside.

Le Anniversaire

August 17th was my birthday. As luck would have it, one of the more esoteric HiFi brands, Totaldac, was located about an hour’s drive away in a rural farm village. I set off in the BMW and navigated my way down narrow farm roads and through towns to meet with Vincent Brient, the owner and sole designer and manufacturer of all Totaldac products. It’s unusual and rare to have a company of such high-end audio products owned and operated by a single individual. Vincent and I spent about two hours discussing his products, his engineering background, and listening to his systems. I hope to have one of these trapezoidal monoliths in my Hi-Fi racks someday.

A Totaldac audio device with a digital display indicating input and volume levels, placed on a white shelf.
A spacious audio setup featuring a pair of tall speakers, multiple audio components on a rack, and a banner with the brand name 'Totaldac' in the background.
The reference system
A setup of high-end audio equipment featuring multiple Totaldac components, including amplifiers and audio processors, arranged neatly on a shelf with visible wiring and adjacent audio gear in the background.
Stacks of DACs
A high-end audio setup featuring multiple Totaldac components, including amplifiers and a digital audio player, displayed on a sleek shelf in a studio environment.
Monoblock Amps
A high-end speaker displayed in a workshop or studio setting, with a wooden finish and multiple speaker components visible.
A totaldac audio component with a digital display, featuring input options and a sleek black design, placed on a shelf with additional audio equipment.
A cluttered shelving unit displaying various containers filled with small parts and hardware, alongside additional boxes and miscellaneous items.
Vincent uses exceptionally precise Russian made resistors in his DACs
A close-up view of a circuit board with various electronic components and cables, placed on a shelf amidst other items.
A totaldac audio device showing its interface with input and volume level displayed.

After treating myself to a great birthday Hi-Fi audio experience, I returned to Saint-Malo to tour the walled city with the gang. I visited Saint-Malo in 1999 and found it to be one of the most interesting towns in France.

A man wearing sunglasses stands on a seaside promenade in Saint-Malo, France, with colorful historical buildings in the background and a sandy beach nearby.
A picturesque street in Saint-Malo, France, adorned with red flags, showcasing historic stone buildings and a bustling atmosphere.
Signboard of a restaurant named 'L'Alchimiste' depicting a globe hanging from a bracket, mounted on a stone wall.
The exterior of Hotel France et Chateaubriand in a bustling square, with people dining outside on a sunny day.
A lively street performance in a bustling town center, featuring a choir of elderly singers in striped shirts. The crowd around them enjoys the music, with shops lining the street creating a vibrant atmosphere.
A scenic view of a coastal area featuring a sandy beach and an old stone fort situated on a rocky island, surrounded by clear blue water and gentle waves under a partly cloudy sky.
A smiling man and a young man pose for a selfie by the seaside, with a small island and cloudy sky in the background.
A group of four men smiling for a selfie by the ocean, wearing casual clothing and hats, with a cloudy sky in the background.
Sporting my new French Disorder hat – Thanks, Mitch. I have matching socks now, too.
Four blue and white flags with fleur-de-lis motifs flying against a clear sky in Saint-Malo, France.
A picturesque view of a small island with a building in the distance, surrounded by clear blue water and a partly cloudy sky.
A stone walkway along the coast, with a crowd of tourists strolling beside the water. The sky is partly cloudy, and waves can be seen crashing against the rocky shore.
A serene beach view with soft waves lapping at the shore, under a sky filled with clouds and a warm sunset glow in the distance, capturing a tranquil moment by the sea.
So many photos of the sea and sky look like impressionist paintings

After hours of touring the walled city, it was now time for my birthday dinner.

Sign for La Brasserie du Sillon, indicating continuous service from 12:00 to 22:30.
Close-up of a leather menu cover featuring a gold and silver design of fish and a stylized letter S.
A vintage-style illustration of the Brasserie du Sillon restaurant in Saint-Malo, featuring a view of the restaurant's pier with a lighthouse and seagulls flying over the water.

Carter picked La Brasserie du Sillon, located on the boardwalk, for the celebration.

A close-up of a server holding a large, live lobster in a restaurant setting, with a woman in the background enjoying wine.
A waiter holding a large lobster in a restaurant, with another lobster visible in a basket.
A person holds a large lobster on a skewer, showcasing its vibrant colors, with a decorative basket in the background.
A close-up of a person holding two live lobsters, showcasing their vibrant colors and textures.
A person holding a large lobster in a restaurant setting, with a visible basket and tableware in the background.
A hand holding a large, vibrant orange lobster, with a city street visible through a window in the background.
A close-up view of a lobster being held, showcasing its vibrant colors and details of its claws and body.
A waiter in a formal outfit presents two lobsters on a serving stand in a fine dining restaurant. A woman can be seen in the background looking at the lobsters.
We selected an assortment of lobsters for our meal.
A serene beach scene at sunset with a person standing in the shallow water, surrounded by a vast sky filled with clouds illuminated by soft colors.
It was a great birthday, especially celebrated with these friends.

Le Pourquoi Pas

While in Saint-Malo, Carter discovered a Michelin-starred gem called Pourquoi Pas — literally, “Why Not?” Nestled in Dinard, a charming seaside resort town just across the estuary, the restaurant sits within Castelbrac, a cliffside hotel that seems to hover gracefully above the water. The setting alone promised something special.

As we settled into our table overlooking the bay, the waiter revealed that the evening’s entire tasting menu would be dedicated to one star ingredient: lobster. We exchanged a few curious glances — an all-lobster menu felt like a culinary gamble — but any hesitation quickly faded. Each course unfolded like a love letter to the sea, and by the second bite, our trepidation had given way to pure delight. The surprise hit on the menu was a lobster sausage, easily one of the best lobster preparations and sausages I have had the pleasure of consuming.

Menu cover of 'Pourquoi Pas' restaurant featuring the name styled in white on an orange background with a shell graphic.
A lobster-themed menu card from the restaurant Pourquoi Pas, featuring a detailed illustration of a lobster.
A fine dining menu featuring seafood dishes with detailed descriptions in French, showcasing ingredients and pairings for a sophisticated culinary experience.
A white shell-shaped dish containing two oysters garnished with herbs and a small meatball on a skewer, presented on a sand-like base.
A gourmet dish featuring a creamy base topped with a crisp layer and a garnish of caviar, elegantly presented on a white plate.
A beautifully presented seafood dish featuring crab claws, assorted tomatoes, and edible flowers, topped with a crisp pastry.
A gourmet dish featuring a vegetable terrine with vibrant greens and a creamy sauce, elegantly presented on a white plate.
A beautifully plated seafood dish featuring lobster, accompanied by a creamy sauce and crispy garnishes, arranged artistically on a white plate.
A dessert featuring a broken cookie shell filled with layers of red fruit sorbet and creamy vanilla ice cream, displayed on a white plate.
A gourmet dessert featuring a delicate pastry topped with melted chocolate sauce, served on a dark plate.
A gourmet dessert featuring a glossy orange fruit jelly, accompanied by dollops of cream and a sprinkle of popcorn for texture.
A sorbet served in a clear glass, placed on a dining table set for a meal, featuring a round orange-colored dessert topped with green herbs.

After lunch, we took a walking tour around Dinard to appreciate its attractions as a seaside summer resort town. It is truly a lovely place, and I would love to return to stay at Hotel Castlebrac and dine at Pourquoi Pas.

A row of blue and white striped beach cabanas set up on the sandy beach with the sea in the background under a clear blue sky.
Selfie of two individuals posing by the waterfront, with a scenic view of sailboats and greenery in the background.
A serene view of a coastal area with numerous boats floating on calm waters, surrounded by a cloudy blue sky.
A bronze statue of a semi-nude woman holding flowers, standing near a waterfront with boats in the background, under a cloudy sky.
A scenic view of a beach in Saint-Malo, France, with people walking along the shore, rocky formations, and distant islands under a clear blue sky.
A scenic view of a coastal area featuring a green swimming pool surrounded by rocky shore, with buildings and trees on a hillside in the background under a clear blue sky.

Mont Saint-Michel

Clearly, the potential epic stop on our tour was Mont Saint-Michel. Not only were we visiting the famed ancient Monastery, we were actually spending the night on the rock. In days of old, the island was only accessible during low tide. Later, a road was built for access during any lunar gravitational pull. I visited in the late 1990’s, so I was excited to return with Carter. Today, one parks about 2km away, takes a bus to a stop, and walks several hundred yards to the medieval entrance. As we were staying on the island, we had our suitcases in tow. It was a bitch navigating the exiting crowds up a steep cobblestone path to eventually find our lodging and ascend four flights of narrow stairs, bags in tow. This, however, was a brilliant plan, as we arrived as the crowds were draining down the streets and had the roam of the rock literally to ourselves for the evening.

Mont Saint-Michel, featuring its iconic medieval architecture, rises majestically from the surrounding sandy shores under a clear blue sky, with visitors strolling along the walkway.
Selfie of two people in front of Mont Saint-Michel, a historic island commune in Normandy, France, known for its medieval architecture.
A view of Mont Saint-Michel featuring a Musée building with a white door and decorative ironwork, surrounded by stone walls and rooftops under a blue sky with clouds.
A narrow, bustling street in a historic area with shops and people, featuring a sign that reads 'Visite Historique' and a black dog standing by a person.
View of Mont Saint-Michel and visitors ascending the path towards the ancient monastery, surrounded by historic buildings and greenery.
A view of Mont Saint-Michel, showcasing the towering medieval architecture against a clear blue sky, with signage and visitors in the foreground.
A narrow stone pathway between two buildings leads down towards a view of the sea and a blue sky with clouds in the distance.
A close-up view of a stone fortification, featuring a weathered wall and a tower structure, with lush greenery along the base against a clear blue sky.
A scenic view of Mont Saint-Michel with its historic buildings and rooftops in the foreground, overlooking the sandy shore and tidal waters below, under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.
A scenic view of Mont Saint-Michel, showcasing the iconic rooftops of the buildings in the foreground, with the expansive bay and sandy beach visible in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
View from the top of Mont Saint-Michel showing the surrounding sea and a medieval structure casting a shadow.
Sign for 'La Vieille Auberge' restaurant and hotel featuring a painted figure of a king, displayed on a stone wall.
A scenic view of the fortifications at Mont Saint-Michel, showcasing a stone wall with a medieval building in the background and the sea to the right under a twilight sky.

We spent hours touring the cobblestone paths and ramparts, feeling like we were living in medieval times, centuries ago. After dinner, the sun set and the tide went out – the magic was about to begin. The moon was full and presented one of the most magical sights I have ever witnessed, Mont Saint-Michel a nuit.

A night view of Mont Saint-Michel, showcasing its illuminated buildings and spire against a cloudy sky.
A scenic night view of Mont Saint-Michel illuminated against a dark sky, showcasing its iconic spire and buildings reflecting in the water below.
Three individuals pose for a photo in front of Mont Saint-Michel at night, showcasing the illuminated monastery on the hill.
A night view of Mont Saint-Michel illuminated, showcasing its iconic medieval architecture against a dark sky.
A person standing in shallow water at night, gazing towards the illuminated Mont Saint-Michel, which is beautifully lit against a moody sky.
A night view of Mont Saint-Michel, illuminated against the cloudy sky, showcasing its iconic tower and surrounding buildings.
A night view of Mont Saint-Michel illuminated with purple lights, reflecting on the wet sand at low tide, with cloudy skies in the background.
Mont Saint-Michel illuminated at night, showcasing its historic architecture atop a rocky island against a dark sky.

The moon was full, and we walked out to the beach at low tide.

Silhouette of a castle-like structure against a dark, cloudy sky at night, with a reflection on the wet sand in the foreground.
Night view of Mont Saint-Michel illuminated, showcasing its medieval architecture and surrounding landscape.
A photograph of Mont Saint-Michel at dusk, showcasing the historic island's architecture with its towering spire and medieval buildings, set against a deep blue sky.
Nighttime view of Mont Saint-Michel with a bright moon shining in the sky and reflective lights on the water.
Mont Saint-Michel illuminated at night, showcasing its stunning architecture against a dramatic sky, with reflective patterns in the foreground.
A nighttime view of a calm beach with a pier extending into the water, illuminated by the moonlight and surrounded by soft clouds.
Moonlight illumination of the entrance road
Two individuals on a beach at night, one assisting the other in removing their shoe.
My failed attempt to cross the waning tide to reach an Island in the distance.
A group of four people poses together at night, smiling and enjoying their time together.
Hijinks at low tide

Le Mont Saint-Michel

A view of Mont Saint-Michel, a historic island commune in Normandy, France, showcasing the medieval architecture of its abbey atop a rocky hill.

Staying the night on the rock had its advantages. We woke early and were able to beat the morning crowds to tour the monastery.

Interior view of the Mont Saint-Michel Abbey, showcasing its tall arched ceilings and vaulted stonework, with visitors admiring the architecture.
View of the tall, Gothic architecture of Mont Saint-Michel, captured from below, showcasing its intricate stone details and windows.
Interior view of Mont Saint-Michel Abbey showcasing the stunning stone arches and windows.
A courtyard of Mont Saint-Michel monastery featuring arched columns and a grassy area with lanterns arranged upright.
The cloister
A view of a medieval stone building at Mont Saint-Michel, with the ocean and a small island in the background, under a cloudy sky.
The island I thought I could walk to on the prior evening
A low-angle view of the medieval architecture of Mont Saint-Michel, showcasing its stone walls and the tall spire reaching into a cloudy sky.

Normandy

After our tour of Mont Saint-Michel, we stopped at Omaha Beach in Normandy to pay our respects to the WWII veterans and take a somber moment of remembrance for the sacrifices made for our freedoms.

A view of the American Cemetery and Memorial in Normandy, featuring neatly arranged rows of white grave markers, a reflecting pool, and well-maintained greenery, with visitors walking along the pathways.
A serene view of a cemetery with white crosses arranged in neat rows, surrounded by lush green grass and tall trees, under a cloudy sky.
A memorial monument at Omaha Beach in Normandy honoring the forces involved in the D-Day landings during World War II, with visitors in the background and a cloudy sky above.
A serene view of the American Cemetery in Normandy, featuring a rectangular reflection pool surrounded by manicured grass and trees, with visitors present.
A silver abstract sculpture stands on the sandy shore next to the ocean, with people walking in the background along the beach.

Paris

We had a few hours in Paris before our flight home, so we toured some sights and caught up with my long-time Friend Xavier. Interesting, I have known Jim and Xavier for 41 years.

A view of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, decorated with colorful Paralympic symbols. The monument stands tall against a cloudy sky, with people gathered around its base.
A colorful construction banner displaying 'PARIS 2024' with various codes and numbers on it, indicating different sections for the upcoming Olympics.
A nighttime view of a Parisian building with illuminated lanterns and window boxes featuring plants, showcasing the charming architecture of the city.
Street sign for Rue des Canettes in the 6th Arrondissement of Paris.
A Paris street scene at dusk, featuring elegant, historic buildings with intricate architecture and a pastel sky in the background.
A cozy table setting with red woven chairs and a glowing candle on a red and gold table, featuring menus for a restaurant.
Opulent interior view featuring a chandelier and elaborately painted ceiling with cloud motifs.
Sign indicating Place de la Concorde in Paris, France, with a weathered appearance.

We enjoyed dinner at a French bistro and drinks at the bar of the famed Hotel de Crillon, where Xavier had performed some DJ sets.

Two men posing together in a stylish hotel lounge, making peace signs with their fingers.
Friends for over 41 years.
A man sitting at a piano in an elegantly decorated lounge with marble walls, cozy lighting, and patrons sitting at tables in the background.
Playing some tunes on the piano

After an amazingly adventurous and exhausting trip, we were set to return home. This was our second international vacation with Jim and Mitch Morgan. Carter and Mitch had been friends for years when, in about 2023, Carter asked if I knew a Jim Morgan. “Yeah, I went to high school with him.” We reconnected and have become fast friends ever since. Father-son trips are the best. It was great to spend so much time with Carter, Rhone, Jim, Mitch, Sam, Sean, Paul, Sebastian, and Xavier exploring Europe on our 2024 National European Vacation.

Looking forward to 2026!

The Photo Montage

A group of friends enjoying a wine tasting in a dimly lit cellar with pink lighting, showcasing champagne bottles and glasses on a long table.
Collage of architectural details from a Gothic cathedral, showcasing intricately carved statues, the spire, and unique roof designs, set against a cloudy sky.
A beautifully arranged plate featuring several gourmet dishes, including a red and white dessert, a pale yellow sorbet, a fresh seafood dish with greens, and various elegantly presented plates of intriguing culinary creations.
A beautifully arranged plate featuring various gourmet dishes, including intricate desserts and savory items, showcasing vibrant colors and artistic presentation.
A series of textured wall sections in various shades of blue, light blue, grey, and beige, arranged in a grid pattern.
A collage of sunset views over Copenhagen's waterfront, featuring boats on the water, colorful buildings lining the harbor, and people enjoying outdoor dining.
A collage showing two young men posing at a dining table, displaying different expressions and hand gestures. They are seated with plates of food and glasses of red wine in front of them.
Collage of a champagne tasting event featuring bottles of Dom Perignon and wine glasses in a dimly lit cellar.
A collage of coastal views featuring varying shades of blue water, sandy beaches, and cloudy skies, with an island visible in the background.
A collage of images from a Champagne cellar, featuring dusty wine bottles, illuminated tunnels, and storage racks for Champagne bottles, showcasing the unique atmosphere and details of the caves.
A collage of images showcasing various aspects of a European road trip, including the Nürburgring sign, a Porsche sports car, a modern Mercedes-Benz museum, a road sign indicating the autobahn, a truck with 'euro-jump' written on it, a highway scene, and vintage racing cars.
Night view of Mont Saint-Michel illuminated by lights, showcasing its historic architecture against a dark sky.
Collage of classic Porsche cars displayed in a museum, featuring a gray convertible, race cars, a red sports car, and a detailed engine.
Collage of scenic views from a boat in Copenhagen showcasing the waterfront, modern buildings, and the city skyline under a bright blue sky.
A vibrant sunset over the Nyhavn area in Copenhagen, showcasing the colorful buildings and bustling atmosphere, with pedestrians enjoying the scene.
A collage of images depicting wine cellars, showcasing rows of dusty bottles and arched corridors lined with wine racks, bathed in a warm yellow light.
A collage of detailed architectural elements from a Gothic cathedral, showcasing spires, gargoyles, and intricate stone carvings. The images include views of the roof, vaulted ceilings, and stone figures, highlighting the craftsmanship and design of the structure.
A grid of nine images showcasing different views of a beach with ocean waves, distant islands, and varying cloud cover.
A collage of night views of Mont Saint-Michel, showcasing its illuminated towers and surrounding buildings, with two individuals posing in front of the tide's edge.
A scenic view of Mont Saint-Michel, showcasing the iconic island and its medieval architecture against a clear blue sky.
A grid of nine colorful textured wall segments, featuring shades of yellow, orange, pink, blue, and green.
A collage of nine images showcasing a beautiful coastal sunset with dynamic clouds over the ocean. The scenes capture various perspectives of the shoreline and water, reflecting different shades of blue and orange in the sky.
A collage featuring various images related to Le Sillon restaurant in Saint-Malo, including a lobster, the restaurant's logo, and a sign.
A serene collage of coastal views showcasing a beach at sunset, with a gradient of blues and pinks in the sky, scattered clouds, and gentle waves lapping at the shore.
A scenic path leading to a restaurant surrounded by lush gardens and greenery.
A collage of exquisite dishes featuring colorful, artistic presentations of various vegetables and elements, showcasing culinary creativity.
A collage of exquisite dishes presented at a fine dining restaurant, featuring vibrant colors and artistic arrangements of gourmet food.

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